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How to Recalibrate Your Hayward Aqua Rite Turbo Cell

I often get calls from people having a problem where their Aqua Rite system is reading a different salt level than manual testing. The first thing to do is to remove the cell and check the blades inside for buildup. If there is buildup follow the procedure for cleaning the cell outlined in How To Maintain And Extend The Life Of Your Salt Cell. If there is no buildup, it’s time to re-calibrate the cell! I’ll walk you through how to do that in this post.

  1. With the pump running, take the power switch down to the “Off” position, and then back up to “Auto”. You should hear a click within 10 or 15 seconds. When you do, press the diagnostic button five times in a row. The system will go through a recalibration process.
  2. Wait until the numbers stop changing. If the system settles on or near a number that is close to what you believe to be the salt level in the pool, slide the power switch up to “Super Chlorinate”, then back down to “Auto”. This will lock that number in as the new average salt reading.
  3. If the system settles on a number that is unrealistic, there is something wrong with either your system or your cell. The most likely issue is that your salt cell needs to be replaced. It could also be that the board in your power center needs to be replaced. At this point you will want to call Hayward at (866) 429-7665. Their tech support team will usually be able to help you determine which part needs replacement. They will need the serial number from the inside of your control panel door (located under a bar code). And the install date of your system if you know it.

If you have any questions or comments please post a comment below!

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  • Anonymous

    what if you do not hear the click?

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      When recalibrating your Hayward Aqua Rite Turbo Cell, if you do not hear the click after 15 seconds of moving the power switch from “off” to “auto”, still try moving forward in the recalibration by pressing the diagnostic button five times in a row and then following the remaining instructions. If you are still having issues with your cell recalibrating, we would recommend contacting the manufacturer for further troubleshooting.

  • sbryan

    hanks so much for this post. I recently purchased a cell online to save $$$. When we connected it said our salt was 900. After balancing the water and adding salt it still read 900. Once I followed your steps, the reading went to 3000 and everything is working well.

  • Anonymous

    Please tell me if which way this cell is installed… Corded end up-stream or downstream… Dwight

    • Scott

      In my discussions with Hayward support they have always said the cell can be installed either direction. There is no orientation requirement.

    • Bill

      The corded end of the salt cell should be installed up stream (so that the flow starts with the corded end and continues through the rest of the cell and plumbing.)

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Dwight, it does not matter which way the Hayward Aqua Rite Turbo Cell is installed (horizontally or vertically), as it is designed so water can flow in either direction. Please let us know if we can be of any further assistance.

  • Dave in Covington

    Is there any calibration required for an AQL-PS4 Controller when replacing an old T-Cell-15 with a new T-Cell-15 ? Thanks

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Dave, you should not have to re-calibrate your Aqua Logic controller when you replace your T-Cell-15 salt cell, however, if you do, you’re in the right place, as this blog should lead you through the process step-by-step. If you have any further questions or need any further assistance, please don’t hesitate to ask.

  • Melanie

    When you recalibrate, does the pool have to be running in service mode or can it be running from the Aqualink system?

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Melanie, when recalibrating your Hayward Aqua Rite Turbo Cell, as long as your AquaLink system is in its on cycle, you do not need to have it in service mode. If your AquaLink system is in its off cycle, you will, however, need to have it in service mode in order to recalibrate your cell.

      To determine if your AquaLink is on or off, press the diagnostic button twice on your Aqua Rite System Control Box. This will give you the cell voltage reading. If the voltage is 22-28, the AquaLink system is running. If the voltage is in the 30s, the system is off, and you will need to set it into service mode before recalibrating your Turbo Cell. Please let us know if we can be of any further assistance.

  • Norma

    How do you recalibrate the Aqua Logic turbo cell? I do not have a diagnostic button to press. Only a menu button that toggles between different menus.

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Norma, because the Hayward Aqua Logic salt chlorine generator control box does not have a diagnostic button, recalibrating its Turbo Cell is slightly different than with the Aqua Rite system.

      – First, we always suggest testing your water as a basis for salt level comparison.
      – Instead of pressing a diagnostic button, you should press “menu” until the diagnostic menu comes up.
      – Press the right arrow to get into the menu. Here, as long as your water test indicates your pool’s salt level is okay, you’ll set voltage, amperage, temperature and salt level. If any messages come up, press the “(+)” button to continue forward.
      – Once your numbers show up and are set — your salt reading should be within 500 ppm — press the right arrow and then “(+)” to save.

      At this point, your Aqua Logic cell should be recalibrated. If you receive any error messages, or if you have difficulty recalibrating your cell, we recommend contacting the manufacturer for additional instructions and troubleshooting. Should you have further questions, please do not hesitate to ask. We’re happy to help.

  • Susan

    Hi, we recently changed out our T-cell from a 15 to a three. Over the next several days we began getting a very high salt reading, 4400. We have emptied water and added fresh water yet continue to get 4200-4300. Is this a serious problem, the last reading from our pool place was 3700, we needed to add stabilizer and calcium…any suggestions?

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Susan, when replacing a T-Cell 15 with a cell of another size, you may receive a high salt reading if the proper model T-Cell has not been selected on your Aqua Rite Control Box. To configure the Aqua Rite for your T-Cell 3, slide the main switch to “Auto”, and push the diagnostic button repeatedly until “t-xx” appears on the display. To change cell type, slide the main switch from “Auto” to “Super Chlorinate” and back to “Auto” until T-Cell 3 is displayed. Once complete, pushing the diagnostic button again will exit out of the screen.

      You may also need to recalibrate your system to set the salt reading (using the steps outlined in this blog), but since you have added fresh water to your pool already, we recommend using AquaChek White Salt Test Strips to attain the actual salinity before calibrating, and to see if you may need to add salt. If you do need to add salt, we suggest doing so before recalibrating. If you have any further questions, please don’t hesitate to ask.

  • Bill Rahm

    My Aqua Rite and T Cell 15 have been installed for approximately 6 months. The system has performed flaulessly during our very hot summer, running for 6 hours/day with a settng of 50%. Recently, our average night-time temperature has dropped to the mid 50′s with day-time tempertures in the mid 70′s. I noticed the chlorine level started increaing above normal so I lowered the setting to 40 and a few days later to 30. Yesterday, I lowered the setting to 20 and shortened the run time from 6 to 4 hours. I expected to see the generating light go out. However. late today, the generating light was still lit and the chlorine level is still above normal. Today the chlorine level is still above normal (Higher then 5). The system seems to running normally, The salt level is 3200, the water temperture is 60 degrees F and the Power and Generating lights are both lit. Should I continue to lower the setting on the control panel or does the high chlorine level indicate the system is not functioning properly. Bill

  • barbara

    I have a aqua rite for my in ground pool 16×32 i now have a t-cell 15 i need a replacement cell should i use another t-cell 15 or can i use a compupool cell??

  • Mike

    My diagnostic panel is reading “no flow.” I checked my turbo cell, it is clean and free of any debris. Does anyone know what the problem could be? Thank you.

  • Roland

    My turbo cell 15 recently stopped producing chlorine on a daily basis, even if I set the output to 100%. However super-chlorinate does work, and produces plenty of chlorine. Any ideas? I did look inside the unit and there does appear to be some calcium build up. At the time I was not sure how to do the acid cleaning, and I need to do that as a next step, but again the super-chlorinate function does work, so I don’t know if I need to replace the unit, or if I can still “salvage” this by resetting something. Next step is to clean it.

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Roland, because your T-Cell-15 is still producing chlorine on Super Chlorinate, the cell is still good. Cleaning the cell could do the trick, but the likely cause of its inability to produce chlorine on a daily basis is either that chlorine demand is too high for the cell to handle or your pool water is imbalanced.

      The T-Cell-15 is designed for pools up to 40,000 gallons, but many factors can increase chlorine demand and affect the cell’s ability to properly sanitize larger pools. As for your pool’s water chemistry, low or high salt levels, improper pH or stabilizer levels or high phosphates can cause your cell to stop producing chlorine. We recommend having a sample of your pool water tested by a professional or using AquaChek White Salt Test Strips, AquaChek Select Test Strips and a Natural Chemistry Phosphate Test Kit to attain salt and water chemistry levels.

      Your salt level should ideally be between 3,200 and 3,300. pH should be between 7.2 and 7.6, stabilizer should be between 60 and 80 and phosphate levels should be as close to zero as possible. Once you attain your salt and water chemistry levels, you should combat any imbalance in water chemistry with the proper amount of salt or chemicals. If you have questions on how to properly balance your swimming pool, please provide us with your pool’s levels and we will be happy to recommend the appropriate course of action.

  • Max Breitung

    I recently had my transformer replace. Control panel back working ok. I recently drain my pool, chemical wash, fill pool back up. Added salt, 8 bags 40lb. each. tested salt level now 4200. turn unit Goldline T cell 15 back on. Salt reading on panel very low 1300. I tried to recalibrating the panel with no luck. still showing 1300. When i first turn the unit on it will start counting down from around 3000 back to 1300. Pool has been running for a several days. This should be more than enough time to circulate the salt. Help

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Max, since you’ve already tested your water’s actual salinity and tried recalibrating your system, it may be time to replace your T-Cell-15. When a salt cell fails it can display a low salt reading even if actual salinity is at the recommended level. Salt cells tend to last from three to five years when properly sized and maintained. You can help extend a cell’s life by frequently cleaning it and using products like Natural Chemistry Cell Protect.

      For future reference, while getting salt levels up near 4,000 is suggested when first adding salt to a pool, the ideal salinity level for optimal chlorine production is in the 3,200 – 3,300 range. If you have any further questions, please don’t hesitate to ask.

  • Terry Williamon

    my salt reading started reading 000 so try calibrating then started reading 0.00, so replaced cell and started genaratering but was reading 3.10 how can i get it back reading with proper reading

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Terry, the first step in making sure your salt level is correct is testing the actual salinity of your water. You can do this by either using AquaChek White Salt Test Strips or taking a water sample to a local pool service shop. If your actual salinity is at the appropriate level (between 3,200 and 3,300 PPM), since you’ve already replaced your salt cell, you should make sure the proper cell has been selected at your control box.

      To select the proper cell, slide the main switch to “Auto”, and push the diagnostic button repeatedly until “t-xx” appears on the display. To change the cell type, slide the main switch from “Auto” to “Superchlorinate” and back to “Auto” until the appropriate T-Cell is selected, and then press the diagnostic button to exit. You may also need to recalibrate the system now that you’ve replaced the cell.

      If these tips do not help your salt level reading, we would recommend contacting the manufacturer for additional troubleshooting. Hayward can be reached at (866)429-7665. Please let us know if we can be of any further assistance.

  • David Redfearn

    12,000 gal pool with Turbo cell 3. Check cell light is always on. I removed cell and checked for debris and cleaned per instructions on Hayward website and check cell light remains on. Seems to generate chlorine and I have had no problems with water (as far as I know) Is the cell at fault or is it the board?

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi David, when the “Check Cell” light is illuminated on an Aqua Rite system, it usually means either the system is not configured for the proper model Turbo Cell, the cell needs to be cleaned, the salt level in your pool is off or the cell is wearing down and needs to be replaced.

      Since you’ve already cleaned the cell, the first thing you should do is check to see which cell is programmed into your system. To do this, slide the main switch to “Auto”, and push the Diagnostic button until “t-xx” appears on the display. To change the configured cell, slide the main switch from “Auto” to “Super Chlorinate” and then back to “Auto” until you reach “t-3″, and then push the Diagnostic button to exit.

      To check the salt level in your pool, we recommend using AquaChek White Salt Test Strips. If your level is low, add salt as needed. If it is high, you should drain your pool some and add fresh water to balance it out. If neither of these are the issue, it is likely you need to replace your T-Cell-3. Please let us know if we can be of any further assistance.

  • Andy Falgout

    My Aqua Rite control panel keeps displaying High salt. Drained most of the water out and replaced with fresh water. After running for a while still displays high salt. Does the cell have to be recalibrated or replaced? any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Andy, when your Aqua Rite control panel displays high salt but your actual salinity is at the proper level (around 3,200 ppm), it could be because the wrong Turbo Cell has been selected. To configure the Aqua Rite for your T-Cell, slide the main switch to “Auto”, and then push the diagnostic button repeatedly until “t-xx” appears on the display. To change cell type, slide the main switch from “Auto” to “Super Chlorinate” and back to “Auto” until the proper T-Cell is displayed. Once complete, push the diagnostic button again to exit the screen.

      If this does not work, you may need to recalibrate the system using the instructions in this article. If the problem persists, we would recommend contacting the manufacturer for additional troubleshooting. Please let us know if we can be of any further assistance.

  • ernest jolley

    i have a pool that is 19620gal salt type the read said add salt i did but ichecked it with test strips it said to high, but all the time the cell would show working for less than a minit then show check cell and salt cell is clean salt has benn run up and down but same thing. i had a cell t-15 ordered new one they sent me a-t-3-15000 still same read out could this be the wrong cell or should it work

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Ernest, if you previously had a T-Cell-15, which is designed for pools up to 40,000 gallons, you should have replaced it with another T-Cell-15. A T-Cell-3 is only designed for pools up to 15,000 gallons and will not be large enough to accommodate your nearly 20,000 gallon pool.

      Generally, the cause of a “Check Cell” display is because the wrong Turbo Cell has been selected in your Aqua Rite control center. Normally, following a series of steps will allow you to select the proper cell, but since the T-Cell-3 will not work for your pool anyhow, we would recommend replacing it with a new T-Cell-15 first.

      If after replacing your cell with one of the proper size you are still experiencing the “Check Cell” error, you can set your system for the correct Turbo Cell by sliding the main switch to “Auto”, and then pushing the diagnostic button repeatedly until “t-xx” appears on the display. To change cell type, slide the main switch from “Auto” to “Super Chlorinate” and back to “Auto” until the proper T-Cell is displayed. Once complete, push the diagnostic button again to exit the screen.

      If this doesn’t work, follow the steps in this article to recalibrate the Aqua Rite system. If you have further questions please feel free to give us a call for immediate assistance.

  • Jodi Davis

    I have a t-cell 15 that is not generating chlorine. When the pool turns on, I see ‘no flow’ for about a minute, the ‘generating’ for a few seconds, then no lights at all. My salt level is showing 2.8, instead of the usual 2800 (give or take). I had the salt cell checked and it was fine. I also replaced the flow switch, but am still not generating. Any ideas?

  • Art Dibari

    I have an aqua logic control with a T- cell 15. A manual test has the salt level at about 3500. My display shows 2800 but was much lower (2300) before I cleaned it. I have cleaned it several times and it reads close to the manual test until it rains then gets to the salt too low level. I’d like to recalibrate the cell but these directions do not jive with my menu as i do not have a diagonostic button although it is a menu selection. What is the procedure for recalibration with this set-up?

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Art, because your Aqua Logic controller does not have a diagnostic button, you should be able to recalibrate it through its menu. First, try going into the diagnostic menu and pressing the ‘right’ button, which will show you the cell display menu. After, you’ll want to press the ‘right’ button again until an “Instant Salt” option appears. Your last step will be to press the “+” button located on your unit, which should display your pool’s actual salt level. We hope this offers some assistance. Please let us know if we can answer any additional questions.

    • Art DiBari

      I have recalibrated according to these directions but there is still about a 500PPM difference between the manual test for salt and the reading on the Instant Salt callibration. Any more optons to get these two numbers in line or is it time to replace the T-15. It is a little over three years old.

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Art, if after recalibrating and performing an instant salinity check your T-Cell-15 is still registering a lower salt level than is actually in your pool, it is likely time for a replacement cell. As cells fail, they can have difficulty reading the proper levels and producing chlorine. If you have further questions, please feel free to contact us for immediate assistance.

  • Tim

    I have a Aqua Logic system with a t-5 cell. My control panel is reading ‘Check Slat Level” ” Chlorinator Off”. I checked the ceel and it is clea. Is there a way to recalibrate my system to read the correct salt level. Took a sample into my locat pool store and the salt reading is 3800.

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Tim, here are a few steps that will help you recalibrate your Aqua Logic system. You’ll first want to try going into the diagnostic menu and pressing the ‘right’ button; this will show you the cell display menu. After, please press the ‘right’ button again until an ‘Instant Salt’ option appears. Your final step will be to press the + button directly on your unit, which should display your pool’s true salt level. We hope this helps, and if the problem continues, please let us know and we’ll be happy to help you troubleshoot further.

  • Scott

    I drained my pool and replaced my cell and I am still showing no flow. I am not hearing a click when I turn it of and back to auto. Any suggestions?

  • Carey Gill

    Hi, I have done the recalibrating process over and over. Before I did this had a reading of 6200. Pool was cloudy and computor was never generating. I took a sample to local Foru Seasons Pool Dealer and they gave me the correct salt reading, its 3464. Now the reading shows 0 and I truned the switch to off for 24 hrs, now I have turned back to Auto and it beeen about 3 hours and the reading is still 0 and still not generating. We put the new cell on last fall and it was working fine. Live in Wentzville MO. Please help. Thanks

  • don

    which way should the water flow through the cell? or which end should electric cord be facing?

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Don, Hayward Goldline Turbo Cells can be plumbed in either direction, however, if you have a CompuPool generic replacement cell, the water flow needs to be from white to blue, so the cord will be at the end the water enters. If you have further questions, please don’t hesitate to ask.

  • Scott

    Hi there. I have an Aqua Logic system which has been displaying salt readings about 1000 ppm below manual tests (strip=3200, pool store=3300, taylor drop test=3100). I cleaned the cell (even though it looked clean) and it still registered the same (~2200) which is too low to produce chlorine. So I bought a brand new cell… it, too, came up with the same low reading. I’d imagine that there is a problem in the computer board. Is there a way to perform a graceful reset? Or do I need to do a hard power cycle on the system? Will either of these options help or do I need to perform some other procedure? Thanks for any insight you can provide. SG Solebury PA

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Scott, the steps outlined in the blog above should completely recalibrate your system. However, if you find that you’re still receiving inaccurate readings, you can try another recalibration set that works better with Aqua Logic systems. First, please try going into the diagnostic menu of your Aqua Logic control panel and pressing the ‘right’ button, which will show you the cell display menu. After, press the ‘right’ button again until an ‘Instant Salt’ option appears. Your final step will be to press the ‘+’ button directly on your unit, which should display your pool’s true salt level.

      If the problem persists, we would recommend contacting the manufacturer for additional troubleshooting. Hayward can be reached at (866) 429-7665. Please let us know if we can be of any further assistance.

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      You’re very welcome, Scott! Please feel free to leave another comment if you have any further questions. We’re always happy to help.

  • Adrienne

    Will this also work for the aquatrol units?

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Adrienne, yes, these directions for recalibration will work for your Aqua Trol Turbo Cell. Please let us know if we can be of any further assistance.

  • Denver Mock

    While waiting for my Turbo Cell 15.Main unit would not display lights at all. I check fuse-OK. I thought perhaps it was the old Turbo Cell since it was not preforming at all. Today I received my new Turbo 15 from you and still the same. At first “no flow light” blinked a few times then everything went blank. I am tinking the main unit is shot. I ordered one this date from you just in case.

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Denver, if you’re still receiving a “no flow” error, it sounds like the problem may lie with the flow switch and not the T-Cell-15 itself. Check to be sure the flow switch is plugged into the connector on the bottom of the control unit. You’ll also want to verify that the wire is not damaged. Also, check that the arrows on the flow switch are pointing in the direction of flow; if installed backwards, the salt cell will not work properly.

      If these tips don’t fix the issue, we recommend having a qualified service technician troubleshoot your chlorinator. This way, the problem will be identified more accurately. Please let us know if we can be of any further assistance.

  • Jamie

    I have an Aqua Logic/Aqua Plus and the Aqua Rite recalibration instructions can not be performed. My system is different. How can a salt cell be recalibrated with my Hayward Goldline Aqua Logic/Aqua Plus? Thanks jwelsch

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Jamie, to recalibrate your Aqua Logic/Aqua Plus system, go into the diagnostic menu of your control panel and press the “right” button, which will show you the cell display menu. Press the “right” button again until an “Instant Salt” option appears. Your final step will be to press the “+” button directly on your unit, which should display your pool’s true salt level. If you need additional assistance with recalibration, we recommend contacting Hayward at at (866) 429-7665. Please let us know if we can be of further assistance.

  • Mark

    I have a t-15 cell (Purchased 06/12). The Booklet does not show a good example of what the display values represent when you step thru by repeatedly pressing the diagnostic button. Would you please define what each step is displaying. Thanks Mark

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Mark, when the Diagnostics button is pushed repeatedly, the following displays show up in this order: pool temperature (xx degrees F or C), cell voltage (xx.x volts), cell current (x.xx amps), desired output % (0P – 100P), instant salinity (-xxxx ppm or –x.xx grams/Liter), product name (AL-0 signifies “Aqua Rite”), software revision level (r1.xx), and chlorinator cell type (t-3, t-5, t-9, t-15). Please let us know if we can be of further assistance.

  • paul

    hi, i have a t-cell 15 and aquarite control board, bought in 2009. All the readings on the board are within proper limits, (salt 3200, temp 88, voltage 24.8, amps 5.95 output set for 100%, and instant salinity 3100-3200, AL-0, R1.40, no cell type reading on this control board) ) i hear the click after 10-15 seconds but there is no chlorine being generated at all (water tested directly from output) i have cleaned the cell, there is no scaling at all, have had water tested and it is pretty much balanced. are there any other issues or is it just hat the cell has stopped working it was working fine up to about a week ago.

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Paul, since you’ve had your water tested and all your levels are fine, and your system readings are fine, chances are it is time to replace your T-CELL15. Salt cells generally last from 3-5 years, when properly sized and maintained. When they fail, they will stop generating chlorine. Before replacing your cell, check to make sure the Aqua Rite switch is turned on and that output is set correctly. Also, if you hear a continuous clicking, this can sometimes be indicative of a damaged Aqua Rite PCB Main Printed Circuit Board.

      Before purchasing a replacement part, we recommend contacting either a local service technician or Hayward directly to properly diagnose the issue. Hayward can be reached at (866) 429-7665. Please let us know if we can be of further assistance.

  • karen

    I believe our trusty 8 yr old Goldline t-15 has finally given up the ghost. It is really 3200 and has been calibrated multiple times. My question is this, we have a pool that is barely 10,000 gallons, if that…should I replace with a T-15 or is it possible to replace with a T-9 or T-3 with the “brain box” we have? I noticed the lower the pool volume, the lower the price, but if it is going to be a major ordeal or problem I am willing to pay the extra bucks to replace apple to apple. And do you feel the compupool generic cel is just as dependable as the hayward? by the way, this is a great forum and you have some awesome information here.

    • karen

      part of my text was missing……our cel reading won’t hold, even tho the salt level is 3200.

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Karen, if you want to change your T-Cell 15 salt cell to a smaller one, like a T-Cell 9 or a T-Cell 3, you will need to replace your entire unit, as the software is your 8-year-old Aqua Rite is designed to work with a T-Cell 15 only. While your 10,000 gallon pool doesn’t necessarily need a T-Cell 15, the reason your previous cell lasted so long is primarily because you oversized your salt cell so much (as well as kept the cell clean and well cared for). Oversizing your salt cell removes a great deal of wear and tear that smaller salt cells often receive, and by oversizing, it dramatically extends a salt cell’s lifespan.

      The CompuPool Generic Aqua Rite (T-Cell-15) Replacement Salt Cell is also a great option, but it will not last as long as an OEM Aqua Rite cell, and we have seen customers experience problems with them before, so please keep that in mind.

      That’s great to hear that the comments on this product page are informative, and if you have any further questions, please do not hesitate to leave us another comment. We’re always happy to help!

  • Donald

    I have an Aqua-Rite Pro Goldline giving me a salt level of 3100 ppm but strip reading of 2200 ppm and pool store test of 2400 ppm. Does my chlorinator need to be recalibrate?

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Donald, if you’re experiencing difficulties aligning your pool’s actual salt level with the salt display on your salt chlorinator, you’ll need to recalibrate it. Doing so will reset your system and display the appropriate salt level quantity; because you have an Aqua Rite chlorinator, you’ll need to follow the directions on this blog. Please let us know if you have any further questions.

  • Dan

    I have an Aqua-Rite Goldline with a T-15 cell. The display is showing 2,400 salt level. Water test shows 4,200. Tried re-calibrating twice. Still 2,400. Clenaed the cell (it looked really clean to start with). Re-calibrated. Still 2,400. The water test showed cholrine level of 3.1 ppm so it’s generating. Cell and unit are 6 years old. Should I replace the cell? Or may it be a PCB problem. Like I say, chlorine level is fine so I’m not too worried at the moment.

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Dan, Salt cells typically last 3-5 years so at 6 years it is very likely that your cell needs to be replaced. You can also try checking the board to see if it has arced. You can do this by shutting down power at the breaker then removing the face plate. Once that is off remove the board and look at the back of it, if it has arced it will be charred and obvious. We would recommend having this done by someone who is a licensed electrician. Again the most likely culprit is just the cell. Let us know if you have any other questions. Thanks!

  • Steve

    Have power to control panel as reading 3300, however green input light is not on and generating green light is also not on. Powered down and grren light for generating came on for approx 45 seconds although green light for power never came on. Any ideas as to cause or procedures to try before calling for service.

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Steve, What kind of salt system do you have and how old are the system and cell? What is your chlorine level when tested?

    • Phil

      Enough salt in the pool?

  • Ron

    Hi. I just purchased a new T-15 cell replacement from you guys. After installing, I am getting the following message on my Hayward Goldline Aqua Rite PL-PS4. “Excessive Salt / Cell Power Off”. However my Salt reading is 2700ppm which is actually low. I see that you can recalibrate some of the Goldline units, but I have not seen instructions for recalibrating the PS4. Ideas ?

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Ron, To recalibrate your salt cell with your Pro Logic system, go into the diagnostic menu of your control panel and press the “right” button, which will show you the cell display menu. Press the “right” button again until an “Instant Salt” option appears. Your final step will be to press the “+” button directly on your unit, which should display your pool’s true salt level. If you need additional assistance with recalibration, I would recommend contacting Hayward at at (866) 429-7665. Please let me know if I can be of further assistance! -Christian

  • Mark

    I have a problem with my system. I have 2 boards, the original board is showing “no flow” and doesn’t clear. The replacement board I purchased new and verified good before putting away as a spare. I’ve used it a couple times in the past and its always worked. I installed this board and the display didn’t work, turned out the fuse holder opened and didn’t give the 20-30VDC at the red/black wires at the top of the board. I replaced it and this board displays AL-2 and also has the “no flow” that doesn’t clear. How can I check the flow switch is working? and is there any other checks I can do?

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Mark, The AL-2 just indicates what type of system you have. If you’re having issues with the panel showing no flow when the water is flowing you need to replace your flow switch. That or the switch is installed backwards. Let me know if you have any questions. Thanks! -Christian

  • Mark

    I just replaced the salt cell on my Aqua Rite XL, I replaced it with a T-15 which is what was original used. I am now reading 4400 which is way above the recommended salt level ppm. We tried to recalibrate but it only went down to 4200. The control system is not reading a high salt level and is operating normally from what I can see. Any suggestions?

  • JRC

    T-15 cell salt indication is decaying over time. We recently had readings of 3000 and fell to2600 over about a 2 week period (no water added), added 40 lbs. of salt at 2800 with no increase. Inspected cell which looked OK, cleaned in diluted acid bath. I plan on trying the calibration. This cell is either in its 4th or 5th year of service, could this be an end-of-life sign?

  • mark

    Just installed an aquarite generator. In regards to the diagnostic button, first number is PPM, then temperature. What are the definitions are order of the other numbers that show up. They are not listed in order in the owners manual. Thanks

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Mark!

      The below information should answer your question. You can also find it on page 14 of the owner’s manual under Troubleshooting.

      Diagnostic Displays
      Sequential pushes of the small “diagnostic” button next to the LCD display will cause the Aqua Rite to display the following information:
      1. Pool temperature (xx degrees Fahrenheit or Celsius)
      2. Cell voltage (xx.x volts)
      3. Cell current (x.xx amps)
      4. Desired Output % (“0P” — “100P” depending on knob position or input from remote pool automation controller)
      5. Instant salinity ( -xxxx ppm or -x.xx grams/Liter)
      6. Product name sent to the pool automation control display (“AL-0″ which signifies “Aqua Rite”)
      7. Software revision level (r1.xx)
      8. Chlorinator cell type (t-3, t-5, t-9, t-15)

      On the 9th push of the button the display will revert back to the default salt display. Also, if the button is not pushed for 30 seconds, the display will revert back to the standard salt display.

      Let me know if you have any questions! -Christian

  • Myron Monroe

    The salt reading on the Aqua Rite is out of wack. It’s reading 2500 so it’s not producing chlorine. I’ve cleaned the cell, verified the actual salt is 3300 ppm. I’ve done the resetting of the meter by off, on, 5 pushes of diagnostics button, watched the meter settle at 2700 and moved switch up to auto then back to auto. After a while the meter’s back at 2500. Is there a way to manually make the meter get the correct reading? Is there some sensor that need cleaning or replacing. I’m getting tired of adding chlorine bags every few days. I appreciate any help you can give me.

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Myron,

      Here is one step I would like you to try.

      1. Slide the Main Switch to the “Auto” position.
      2. Push the Diagnostic button repeatedly until “t-xx” appears on the display (“t-15″ is the factory default). If the desired cell type is displayed skip to step 4.
      “t-3″ = T-CELL-3, GLX-CELL-3-W
      “t-5″ = GLX-CELL-5, GLX-CELL-5-W
      “t-9 = T-CELL-9, GLX-CELL-9-W
      “t-15″ = T-CELL-15, GLX-CELL-15-W
      3. To change to a different cell type, slide the Main Switch from “Auto” to “Super Chlorinate” and back to “Auto”. Repeat this process until the desired cell type is displayed.
      4. Push the Diagnostic button to exit.

      After you have done this step try calibrating the salinity again, If this does not help then I would suggest contacting the manufacturer and troubleshooting with them. Ultimately you could need a new cell.

      1. Slide the Main Switch to the “Auto” position.
      2. Push the Diagnostic button repeatedly until “-xxxx ppm” appears on the display.
      3. Slide the Main Switch from “Auto” to “Super Chlorinate” and back to “Auto”.
      4. Push the Diagnostic button to exit.

      Let me know if you have any questions! -Christian

    • John

      I just received my replacement compupool t-15. I have an Aquarite control box with r1.4 firmware. My salt reading from the Pool store is ~3300. After installing the GRC40GH, it was reading 2900. It was the first cooler evening of the year here in Dallas, so I turned on the hot tub and was cycling only the hot tub. When I finished I had a red light for hi salt. I switched back to pool only with no heat and after a while it read 2900. I then switched to superchlorinate and ran overnight. In the morning, my salt reading is 4400. I tried resetting with the 5 times in a row and it still reads 4400. it’s still generating chlorine. I ran it all day and I think it is now 4300. Any ideas on what the issue might be?

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi John,
      It sounds like there is either an issue with your software or with the main board. I would recommend calling CompuPool at (888) 989-7258 and having them troubleshoot the system to determine what is causing the issue. Let me know if there is anything I can do to help! -Christian

  • Reggie Klein

    Installed new T-cell 15 on the original Aqua Rite system, which does not display the cell model, the salt is 3200ppm, the ph was 7.3 and the stabilizer was at 45ppm, phosphates were at 150ppb and is still not generating chlorine, and the pump is running for 8 hours with 90% on the output. Need some help.

  • paul

    The chlorinator is reading no flow eventhough the water is flowing through. What to do?

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Paul,
      It sounds like there is a problem with your flow switch. What kind of chlorinator do you have? -Christian

    • Howard Hill

      How old is your water? Your TDS (total desolved solid) and Calcium hardness levels may be too high if you pool water is over 3 years old. TDS and Calcium hardness climb over time and will interfere with your chlorine levels. It may be time to change your water, either drain half way or a complete drain.

  • Gustavo Forastiere Sauro

    Thank you for the tip. I do have a question. Does a new cell need to be calibrated when installed just as you described how to calibrate an existing cell? Thank you!

    • roysteves

      You may have to calibrate the new cell if your physical water test readings do not match the reading of the new salt cell displayed on the control panel. This can come into play when a new cell is introduced to an older pre existing system.

  • Mike

    Just had a new hayward salt system installed about a week and and half ago and the yellow detected a problem light will not go out. I’ve backwashed and rinsed several times and added a couple of small bags of shock chlorine. what to do next?

    • roysteves

      Hi Mike, I’d recommend giving us a call at 800.772.0467, and we’d be happy to help you out. If you ask for my colleague, Kyle, he said there might be more going on, possibly low salt, but would want to get a few more details to be certain to offer the right advice.

  • Jose

    Hello, I need to replace my AquaRite 20 T-cell-5 and I would like to know if a T-cell-9 can do?
    Thanks,
    Jose

  • Matthew Lucas

    My Aqua Rite panel reads COLD, and the generating light is blinking, which means no chlorine is being made. I’m in Palm Springs and the pool temp is 85 or higher all the time. I have checked the wire connections and everything seems to be ok.
    Any suggestions?

    • Dylan (PoolSupplyWorld)

      Sorry to hear you have been experiencing some issues with your system. Here’s a couple of steps you can take to try and isolate the issue:

      1) Press the diagnostic button once and the system should read off the temperature of what it’s reading, more than likely this number will be south of 50 degrees.
      2) Ensure that the cable is fully plugged in and doesn’t slide in and out too easily. Try shutting everything down, unplugging, then hooking back up and turn on.
      3) It could just be a defect or failure with the temperature sensor.
      4) The plug should be a 10 pin connector, take a look at the pins and ensure that none of them look damaged in any way.
      5) If familiar, then you can inspect the circuit board for any damage. This may be something you need to have a pool tech take a look.

      If still not able to isolate the issue then I would suggest giving the manufacturer a call directly at 866-429-7665. They have techs on hand that would be able to go in-depth with their troubleshooting and help determine the issue. Hopefully this helps! Thanks!

  • Gary David

    When I left to go on vacation the salt reading was 3100. When I return 12 days later the salt reading was 1400. I have added 4 – 40lbs bags and the salt reading is only 2000. This does not seem right. The system was installed September 2006 and it is the original t-15 cell. Any suggestions.
    Another issue: a few years ago the salt display switched from full display (3300) to (3.30). How do I change back to full display?

    • http://www.poolsupplyworld.com/ Daniel Henson(PoolSupplyWorld)

      Hello, Gary. It may be a bad sensor and a bad cell. The typical lifespan of a salt cell is 3-5 years. It sounds like it’s time to replace the unit.

      Here are steps to change the salt reading:

      1. Slide the Main Switch to the “Auto” position.
      2. Push the Diagnostic button repeatedly until “ºF” appears on the display.
      3. Slide the Main Switch from “Auto” to “Super Chlorinate” and back to “Auto”.
      4. Push the Diagnostic button to exit.

      Please note this adjusts both your salt levels and your temperature, from English to Metric or Metric to English.

  • Amereirca Lajon-Thomas

    My Aqua Rite panel show the power light and the no flow light on but all other lights are off. I know the flow sensor has to be replaced and I’ve ordered it but is this the reason all the other lights are off?

    • Dylan (PoolSupplyWorld)

      That would be normal for the other lights to not be illuminated. Without the proper flow to activate the chlorinator, then the other functions would not work. Once you have your new flow switch installed and hooked up then it should run just fine. Have a good day!

  • andy

    I just replaced my t-15 cell after getting tired of constantly having to re calibrate. (Plus tested the cell and it failed.) Now, with a brand new cell, same thing. I am having to re-calibrate sometimes twice a day. sometimes after a couple of days. The salt reading drops to below 2600 and then the two lights start to flashing (check cell and the check salt level lights.) It is a brand new cell so I know it is not a cell issue. Is there a way to test the mother board? Is there a way to test the mother board before making the investment in a new one?

    • Dylan (PoolSupplyWorld)

      First thing to check would be that the salt level is in the correct range, and not actually too low. You may have already done this, but I would check the water independently to ensure that the readings match up with the salt system. Before ordering any new parts I would speak with Hayward directly at 866-429-7665 as their technicians may have some further insight on what the issue with the system is. If I had to guess I would agree that it probably is the mother board that is the issue. Let me know if I can be of any further assistance, thanks!

  • Mitch

    Hi, I have a 7 year old Goldline / Aqua-Rite controller and a relatively new (2 months old) T-15 cell. All the readings on the board are within proper limits, (salt 3500, temp 89, voltage 24.8, amps 6.78 output set for 90%, and instant salinity 3400, AL-0, R1.40, no cell type reading on this control board) i hear the click after 10-15 seconds but there is no chlorine being generated at all (water tested with home kit and by a pool store) The cell is clean and there is no scaling at all. I have had the water tested and it is pretty much balanced (pH 7.5, TA 80, CYA 70, Salt 3600 and Phosphates 50). The indicator lights would have you to believe that it is generating but it is definitely not. What do you recommend?

    • Dylan (PoolSupplyWorld)

      I did give the technicians over at Hayward/Goldline a call as nothing jumped out right away that would indicate something is wrong. Since you are getting an amp reading of 6.78 that does mean the cell is currently generating. A couple further questions would be how many gallons is your pool and what is the current run time of your pump? If you do live in a warm location and the pool is being frequently used then the chlorine being generated just may not be able to meet demand and the chlorine is being used up right away. Maybe try extending your run time for 4 hours for a few days to see if that helps to output more chlorine. If you still don’t get any results I would suggest giving the manufacturer a call at 866-429-7665 and seeing if the technicians there would be able to identify anything else that could be the issue.

  • Sharon Matheson Lee

    Hi, I recently cleaned my t-cell 15, and since re-installing the no flow light and the power light are the only ones that come on. Please help!

    • Dylan (PoolSupplyWorld)

      I would double check that the flow sensor is securely installed and that there is no damage to the sensor or to the wiring. Also check that the pump is on and running and water is freely moving throughout the cell. You may want to clean your filter to ensure that the water flow isn’t being slowed down by a dirty filter or any other kind of obstruction. If it still does not operate I would next contact the techs at Hayward at 866-429-7665 for further troubleshooting.

      • Sharon Matheson Lee

        Thank u Dylan, very much!

  • shanda Frazier

    My salt cell control panel will not go off when we turn it to off why and it says no flow then generating and then shuts off why

  • Chuckles Hotzenpfeff

    My salt was at 2800 – then the reading suddenly started saying 6900, which I know is not true. How can that be fixed? The cell’s clean.

    • Chuckles Hotzenpfeff

      My AquaRite is only about 5 months old.

      • Dylan (PoolSupplyWorld)

        The first thing to check is whether or not the system is calibrated to the correct sized cell. If it is a T-Cell15 that you have then you will want to ensure it’s programmed to be reading that cell and not a smaller size, such as T-Cell3. If it is set on the wrong size cell then it will give false salt readings.

        If it is programmed correctly the next place to look would be the main PCB, I would first just inspect it for any obvious damage. If none, then I would suggest having a technician out to take a look and determine where this issue is. If you wanted to contact Hayward at 866-429-7665 they would be able to recommend a local company to you.

        Let me know if you have any additional questions, thanks!

  • Yvon

    I live in Canada and have an in ground pool that runs 365 days/year. My filter and Aquarite are inside my house so it wouldn’t freeze. I now get a cold message from my Aquarite. The water temperature is 45F. Can I run my Aquarite without problem?

    • Ben Blythe (PoolSupplyWorld)

      Hello Yvon,

      The AquaRite automatically stops working when the temperature gets below 50 degrees Farenheit. Page 8 of the Operation and Installation Manual has more information but if you have any questions, don’t be afraid to let me know.

      http://edc.poolsupplyworld.com/wpdf/aquariteom.pdf

      • Yvon

        HI Ben,

        Thanks for the quick answer. My question is, As I need to let my filter running to prevent my pool from freezing, can it damage the cell?

  • Michael Denham

    I have a T-3 and have had it for about a year and half. I can’t get it clean. I’ve used the acid/water solution and solution the pool store recommended, but nothing gets it clean. The salt reading is lower than the manually measured level. Every time I clean it the level comes up for about a week, then it falls below the level required to generate chlorine. Even after cleaning the salt level never comes up to manually measured level. Any recommendations for a thorough cleaning?

    • Dylan (PoolSupplyWorld)

      The acid/water solution would be the most effective way of cleaning the cell, you could also attempt to scrape off any calcium buildup that is on the cell plates. Do not use any metal devices (i.e. screwdriver) as this would be harmful for the cell plates. I would also try removing the flow sensor and cleaning it off to ensure the issue is not with the sensor.

      The salt levels gradually falling is an indicator that the cell is dying, and is close to needing to be replaced. Cells typically last 3-5 years before needing to be replaced. What size is your pool? The T-Cell3 is one of the smaller cells, you might need to consider a larger cell for it to have a longer lifespan.

      Thanks!

      • Michael Denham

        Dylan,
        My pool is just under 10,000 gallons. I have tried to scrape the cells with straws, wood sticks and large zip ties. the problem is reaching all areas of the cells. Any suggestions?
        Thanks,

  • Robert Weiser

    Hello,
    I have a Hayward Salt System and I am running into a problem. In the diagnostics the cell is showing zero voltage on the control panel. When the white data cable is not plugged into the unit, all the lights on the control panel are functioning. When I plug the data cable from the cell into the control panel about 15 20 seconds later, all the lights on the control panel shut off. The system is reading 900ppm of salt but a water test shows it at 3500. How can I tell if the small sensor on the phone cable is bad or if the cell itself is bad?
    Thanks,
    R.Weiser

  • Lori Garcia

    Our Hayward Salt Chlorine Generator is giving a reading of “HOT”. Is the problem in the Cell?

  • PoolSupplyWorld

    Hi Bill, when the chlorine level in your pool increases above normal, we recommend shutting your Aqua Rite system off completely until the chlorine level is back in check. You can monitor the actual chlorine level using AquaChek Yellow Free Chlorine Test Strips.

    Most pools require less chlorine once the weather turns cool, so when you get the chlorine levels in check, turn your Aqua Rite chlorine generator back on at a “0″ setting (which is actually five percent, according to the manufacturer). From there, we suggest monitoring the system to determine its need.

    If you continue to have high chlorine issues, we recommend contacting the manufacturer for additional troubleshooting. Please let us know if we can be of any further assistance.

  • PoolSupplyWorld

    Hi Mike, the Aqua Rite’s “No Flow” light simply means that your Hayward Goldline T-Cell-15 has stopped generating chlorine, and a few troubleshooting methods will help you decide where the problem may be occurring. First, you will want to check that the flow switch is plugged into the connector on the bottom of the control unit and ensure that the wire is not cut or damaged, which will influence the control center’s performance. Second, check that the arrows on the flow switch are pointing in the direction of flow, which is essential to the Aqua Rite’s operation.

    If the “No Flow” reading is still occurring, there may be a problem with your pool’s salt level. Please ensure that it is at its ideal level, which is around 3,200 PPM. If your salt level is lower than ideal, your salt system may not function properly and the “No Flow” reading will appear on the display screen. Also, how cold is your pool water? Water below 50 degrees will cause the Aqua Rite to stop generating chlorine.

    If the problem continues after you’ve tried the above troubleshooting methods, we highly recommend contacting Hayward for immediate assistance. They can be reached at (866) 429-7665. Please let us know if we can be of any further assistance.

  • PoolSupplyWorld

    Hi Jodi, the 2.8 salinity reading means the same thing as 2,800, so there’s no worries there. Part of the reason for the format change could be the same reason your salt chlorinator is not generating chlorine: when your T-Cell-15 is not generating chlorine, you get a ‘no flow’ indicator for about a minute, and then the ‘generating’ indicator comes on for a few seconds before all lights go off, it can mean either the board or transformer is bad or the system is getting electrical interference due to a power surge.

    To determine if there is an electrical issue, you will need to check the voltage on your board. To check the voltage, check the yellow on the right side of your board to the yellow on the rectifier, and the orange on the board to the orange on the rectifier. The voltage should be between 23 and 26 AC. If you are unsure about checking the voltage, we highly recommend contacting a service technician for assistance as they will be able to check voltage, determine the issue with your system and suggest any necessary replacement parts or remedies.

    Should you need to replace your board, the Aqua Rite PCB Main Printed Circuit Board is the proper replacement for all Aqua Rite systems. Please let us know if we can be of any further assistance.

  • PoolSupplyWorld

    Hi Scott, we’re sorry to hear that you’re still experiencing some difficulties with your salt chlorinator. If you’re still receiving a “no flow” error, this may be a problem with the flow switch, not necessarily the cell itself. Check to be sure the flow switch is plugged into the connector on the bottom of the control unit. You’ll also want to verify that the wire is not damaged. Second, check that the arrows on the flow switch are pointing in the direction of flow; if installed backwards, the salt cell will not work properly.

    Also, please double check that your salt content is at its optimal level, which tends to fall in the area of 3,200 PPM. You can use AquaChek White Salt Test Strips to get your salinity reading. If the “No Flow” reading is still occurring, there may be a problem with your pool’s salt level. Your salt system may not function properly if your level reads below 3,200, and the “No Flow” reading will appear on the display screen.

    Finally, water temperature is also an important factor that gets overlooked. For example, pool water below 50 degrees will cause the Aqua Rite to stop generating chlorine completely.

    Ultimately, if these problems still occur, it may be time for a new salt cell or flow switch, but to determine the cause of the ‘no flow’ warning, we highly recommend contacting a local technician who will be able to identify the problem. If you have any further questions, please feel free to contact us for immediate assistance.

  • PoolSupplyWorld

    Hi Carey, check to make sure your cell and control box are wired properly. Check for damaged or loose wires. Is your control unit showing any error codes or are lights flashing or illuminated? If you’ve checked the previous and you’re still having issues, we highly recommend contacting the manufacturer for additional troubleshooting steps. This will help narrow down the issue and help you determine whether the problem is coming from the cell or the control unit itself. Please let us know if we can be of further assistance.

  • Scott

    Thanks for taking the time to help me! It’s truly appreciated! Great site you have here. Thanks again. SG, Solebury PA

  • PoolSupplyWorld

    Hi Mark, Have you tried checking the salt level manually? What is it reading when tested? -Christian

  • PoolSupplyWorld

    Hi JRC, It sounds to me like you need to replace the cell. Go ahead and try the calibration and see if that helps. I would be careful about adding salt based on the system’s readings, I would test your salt level with strips and get a real reading then adjust based on that. Let me know if you have any questions. -Christian

  • PoolSupplyWorld

    Hi Reggie,
    Have you tried calibrating your Aqua Rite system? It may need calibration or it may be that your older board is incompatible with the T-Cell 15. What cell did you originally have on your system? -Christian