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Common Questions About Salt Cells

As swimming pool owners are learning more about alternative methods of sanitation, we are hearing more questions about salt chlorine generators. Below, we’ve put together answers to a couple of common questions as well as ones that can save you time and money.

It’s important to note, properly maintained salt cell will last 3-5 years; an improperly maintained cell can fail in a year. Considering that salt cells are relatively expensive, we want to make sure you know the basics about prolonging their lifespan so you’ll get the most value for your dollar.

Why do salt cells fail?

Salt cells fail for a few different reasons, the main reason being lack of proper maintenance. It is very important to check the cell regularly for excessive buildup. Doing this ensures excess calcium doesn’t become caked on the metallic plates. Use a cleaning kit designed for salt cells to keep the plates clear of buildup. Another common cause of salt cell failure is improper water balance. Be sure to test your pool water regularly using a test kit designed for salt water pools.

Can I replace it myself?

Absolutely, replacing a salt cell is rather simple (we have a whole article dedicated to replacing your salt cell) and it just involves turning off the pump, disconnecting the cell and replacing it with a new one.

How can I test to see if my cell is working properly?

The easiest way to do this is to test your water balance regularly for the pH and chlorine levels. If the chlorine level is dropping it might mean your salt chlorine generator is not producing enough chlorine. Also, most system control units come with some kind of alert to notify you of low salt and chlorine levels. If this is something you don’t want to worry about, make sure to check the model before you purchase a system.

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How can I clean my salt cell?

If your salt cell doesn’t have that much buildup you might be able to clean it with water pressure once its disconnected from the plumbing but if not, then follow these instructions:

To clean your salt cell you need to turn off the power and remove the cell from your plumbing. After you have it removed, you need to mix up one part hydrochloric acid and five parts water in a suitable container (Be sure to wear gloves and eye protection because you’re dealing with acid). Now soak your cell for 3 to 5 minutes and rinse, visually inspect the cell to make sure its clean and replace. You can also purchase a cleaning kit designed for salt cells.

How often should I clean my cell?

Proper maintenance is the key to making anything last longer. To get the most out of your salt cell, we recommend inspecting the cell once a week during heavy use and every other week during the off season. If you notice any buildup, clean as necessary.

Check out our great selection of salt chlorinators and replacement salt cells.

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  • Joe

    Hi, I have a Aquarite system that was installed in 2004 and use a Turbo Cell T cell 15 but my pool is only 14,000 gals. I understand the T cell 15 is for 40,000 gals and is much more expensive. This is going to be the third time that I’m replacing the cell. Can I use the T cell 3 for 15,000 gals? Thanks, Joe

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Joe, thank you for your question regarding the Replacement Salt Cells. It would be possible for you to use a T-Cell-3 as the two are interchangeable as long as your system was made after 2009. If your system is older than this, you’ll need the Hayward Goldline Aquarite PCB Main Printed Circuit Board for T-Cell 15 in order to make the switch over. Please let us know if we can be of further assistance.

  • jeff mueller

    i have a turbo cell 15 that i need to replace. can i get the goldline t-cell-15 for a replacement? do i have to change my pcb? my current pcb is G1-066021c-1 any help would be greatly appreciated. jeffcooks

  • Shawn

    I recently replaced my Tcell-5 Salt Cell that was bad. I went with a larger one, The Tcell-15 because my pool is approx.38, 000 gallons. The system is telling me the salt level is to high. I have been getting the salt tested at a pool company and its a the recommended level. what could be the problem and how can i correct it ?

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Shawn, thanks for your great question. The reason you’re getting inaccurate readings on your salt cell is that your new salt cell is not sized correctly for your generator system. These systems are designed to only be compatible with their original cell models. So, if your original system had a T-Cell-5, you would always need to purchase T-Cell-5′s, or upgrade the control to be compatible with a T-Cell-15.

      With that said, you were absolutely right to want to upgrade your cell. The T-Cell-5 is designed for pools up to 20,000 gallons and will not produce enough chlorine for your 38,000 gallon pool. On top of that, we always recommend upsizing the cell a bit so that it can handle increased chlorine demand and does not operate at maximum performance all the time. We recommend going with the Hayward Aqua Rite In-Ground Chlorine Generator up to 40,000 Gallons. This system includes the control, salt cell, and everything you’ll need for installation and operation except the salt. We would be happy to answer any other questions you may have about this or any other product on our site – we’re always happy to help!

  • Greg Kraner

    I have a Jandy Aqua Pure 1400 that gave me fits last season. Some times it worked and some times not. It is an older unit so I want to replace it. I read you like the Pentair Intellichlor. My pool is about 18K gallons and I was wondering if the IC40 was a good choice???

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Greg, thanks for your great question. Yes, the Pentair IntelliChlor IC40 Complete Salt Chlorine Generator System with Power Center is a fantastic choice. The IC40 has full diagnostic capabilities, so if you were to ever have any trouble with it you would be able to easily decipher the cause of the problem. The IntelliChlor is simple to operate and is equipped with a shut-off feature to protect the life of the cell. You might want to check out Natural Chemistry Cell Protect Salt Cell Generator Extender. This is a phosphate-free product that controls and prevents calcium buildup to prolong the life of your salt cell and significantly reduce maintenance (such as acid washing). It is compatible with any form of sanitization and is added directly to your pool water. Please let us know if we can answer any other questions regarding these or any products on our site. We’re always happy to help!

  • Craig

    I recently removed and cleaned my cell, electrically it was working fine before and when I reconnected it the system box doesn’t turn on but the power goes through to the timer and the pump works fine. All connections to the cell are ok as are the connections to the power and the system box. Do you think my system is stuffed?

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Craig, thank you for your excellent question. How old is your system? It sounds like you most likely have a blown fuse. Your system probably has a 3.15 amp fuse and we would recommend replacing it with a 5 amp fuse. On these systems, the fuse can be found at the bottom of the circuit board. Please let us know if we can be of any further assistance.

  • Wolf

    Hi I have an Autopilot Digital System with a SC-48 cell and a 45000 gal pool. I have the clorinator on full blast at 100% on Power level 3 but the pool still turns green. The system reads 15v and 8 amps. I’m used to 27v and 8 amps. The salt is at 5300ppm and clorine level is very low. The cell is 4 years old and very clean. Is there an issue with the cell and if yes can I upgrade to a SC-60 cell? Thanks

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Wolf, thank you for your great question. It sounds like due to the age of your cell that your cell is beginning to fail. We recommend that you upgrade to the Replacement Salt Cell for AutoPilot SuperCell (SC-60/DIG-60) with Unions. The SC-48 has a top capacity of 42,000 gallons and because your pool is even larger the SC-60 will be much better for your pool. The cell and system will not have to work as hard because they will not be running on full capacity which means you should see a longer lifespan.

      For power level 3 a reading of 15 volts is actually fairly normal however from your other symptoms it sounds like your cell is failing. Please let us know if we can be of any further assistance.

  • Dave

    9. “-Pcb-” displayed and all 4 red/yellow LEDs are illuminated. A possible Printed Circuit Board fault has been detected. Call for service. I got this error on my goldline Aquarite system. What causes this error and do i need to replace the control board?

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Dave, thank you for your excellent question. When this error flashes it means that you have to replace your circuit board. How old is your system? A typical lifespan for the circuit board is between six and eight years. The error was most likely caused by a relay sticking on the board or general electrical failure due to age. You will need the Hayward Goldline Aquarite PCB Main Printed Circuit Board for T-Cell 15. Please let us know if we can be of any further assistance.

  • David

    I have a zodiac lm2-24 salt system. I have a amber light on the output side and an amber light on for the add salt. I’m not sure how old the cell is but when the water test came back it showed no chlorine. my salt level is 4070 ppm and the water temp is 80 degrees. I don’t see any bubbles in the cell and it was cleaned three weeks ago. when i press the super chlorinate button it lights green but the amber lights stay on. Any thoughts? i’d hate to purchase a new cell and find out its something else.

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi David, thank you for your excellent question. You should first check the voltage to the cell. It should be 20-28VDC. If the voltage is low then the board is most likely bad. If the voltage is good, then the cell is most likely bad. Please give us a call if we can answer any other questions, we’re always happy to help!

  • louis c

    my t-cell-15 aqua rite has black like tar coming out of the screw on inspection cover of t-cell, what could have caused this problem and do i have to replace t cell and generator? pool is about 15000gal and was purchased 4/22/05

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Louis, thank you for your excellent question. Hayward once in awhile sees this problem. It can be caused by a myriad of factors including hot weather conditions and age of your system. However, the good news is is that the black like tar will not affect your cell’s performance. Since the electrical and inner workings of the cell are covered, your unit should be fine and you should not need to replace anything. Please let us know if we can be of any further assistance.

  • Erin

    We recently bought a house and it has a Polaris Auqa Clear Plus system that recently stopped working, we had it checked out and they told us that the salt cell needed to be cleaned, we did this last night, how long until we know if that worked and that the cell doesn’t need to be replaced? Also, we shocked the pool Sunday b/c there was no chlorine and now the chlorine is high, will this cause a longer wait to know if the cell is working??

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Erin, thanks for your excellent question. Almost 99% of the time if there is something wrong with the system it would give out an error code (91, 92 or 94). If there is not an error code then the only way to know if the cell is working is to keep checking the chlorine level in the pool. Since you shocked the pool it will take a few days for the chlorine level to go down. After that is when we will know if the Autoclear is maintaining that level or not. Please let us know if we can be of any further assistance.

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Erin, thanks for your great question. Cleaning the cell could fix the problem. You can also check to make sure that the temperature is set correctly on the Autoclear. If you ever need to replace the salt cell you will need the Polaris AutoClear Plus In-line Replacement Cell Assembly with Flow Switch. Please let us know if we can be of any further assistance.

    • Erin

      Before we cleaned the cell, there was an error code of 91, but were told that cleaning it could fix the problem as the cell was very dirty and clogged. Does that sound right? Also, if I need to replace the Polaris Aqua Clear Plus salt cell, any idea where I would find that?

  • Randy

    I currently have a Pentair IC40 salt cell running on my 10,000 gallon in ground pool. When I need to replace it, can I replace it “plug n play” with the IC20 model? My thinking is that the IC40 is overkill on a 10,000 gal pool. Thanks Randy

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Randy, thank you for your excellent question. You can most certainly replace your current IC40 cell with the Pentair IntelliChlor Chlorine Generator Replacement Cell (20K Gallons / IC20P), as both cells use the same power center. The IC40 is generally too large for your pool, however, you can either purchase the IC20 cell, or you can dial down your IC40 to produce less chlorine for longer lasting use. You can also cut down on the cyanuric acid you are using, which will keep your chlorine in suspension, preventing possible IC40 overkill. We hope this has helped, and please let us know if we can be of any further assistance.

  • Chris Echelberry

    Hello i have a APURE700 with a bad cell APURE700 No. 135771. What cell do i need to replace this one that will work with my current control unit and any other parts needed to make this swap thank you.

  • Steve

    Can I replace my APURE 1400 2 port salt cell with the newer 3 port cell, PLC1400 (which I will order from Pool Supply World) without reworking any of the pipes? Is it plug and play?

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Steve, the new 3-port AquaPure cells are direct replacements for the old 2-port cells, but are slightly longer, so you will need to cut your PVC pipe to accommodate the new size. The Jandy AquaLink Cell Kit you are interested in includes not only the 3-port cell, but also the unions needed for proper installation. Other than the slight re-plumbing, as long as you’re changing the cell out for one of the same size (1400 for 1400), there shouldn’t be any problems. Please let us know if we can be of any further assistance.

  • Craig

    I have an Aqua-Rite Salt system that was installed 5 yrs ago. I need to replace my cell “Turbo Cell GLX-cell-15-W. I understand their was some software change and the new cells are not compatible. Help??

  • renay

    i don’t have any output after replacing the new cell it’s the same as before still showing a 94

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Renay, which salt chlorine generator system are you currently using? There may be a communication issue between your control center and your cell. We recommend contacting the manufacturer of your system for additional troubleshooting steps and to help diagnose issue. Please let us know if we can be of further assistance.

  • Tim Perry

    I have a 1400 square cell and it looks like the tri sensor is bad. Can it simply be replaced with a new cell and cord. Thanks

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Tim, if the sensor in your square AquaPure 1400 salt cell has gone bad, you can replace it with a Jandy Flow Sensor with 8′ Cable. However, if your cell is more than four or five years old, we recommend replacing it in its entirety with the Jandy AquaLink Cell Kit for Pools up to 40,000 Gallons with 16′ Cable. This cell kit includes a flow sensor with 16’ cord, as well as the new AquaPure 1400 3-port cell, which has replaced the square 2-port cells. Some minor re-plumbing is required to accommodate the slightly longer new cell. If you have any further questions or would like immediate assistance, please feel free to contact us.

  • Mike

    I just bought a CompuPool Replacement Cell for Autopilot SuperCell SC-60/DIG-60. However, I now realize the original SC-60 has three prongs and the replacement cell only has two. Now what? Do I need to replace the cord as well or did I get the wrong item?

    • Ron

      The two outside posts connections are wired together inside the end of the cable that attaches to the control unit. You can pull off the plastic cover over the end of the wire and see the connection.

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Mike, there is no operational difference between the two-pronged CompuPool generic replacement cell and three-pronged Autopilot SuperCell SC-60/DIG-60. The only difference between the two is, literally, the number of prongs they come with.

      You do not need to replace the cord — simply plug the two-pronged cell into two of the three ports located on the plug. It doesn’t matter which side of the socket the CompuPool salt cell is plugged into (either the left or the right side will work). You can easily plug the remaining port with a rubber stopper, which can be purchased at any local hardware store. We hope this has helped, and if you have any further questions, please feel free to contact us for immediate assistance.

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Ron, could you please clarify what you are asking and what salt cell are you using? If you could provide a little more information, we’d be more than happy to help.

  • Mark Uptegraphy

    I have an auto pilot Pool pilot digital dig-220 with a sc36 cell and when the cell reverses for cleaning it only works on one polarity. the cell is clean and the cord is good. Can I test the cell itself with an ohms meter? if so what should I be reading? Should I be getting 26v at the end of the cord?

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Mark, rather than use an ohmmeter on your Dig-220 AutoPilot SC-36 salt cell to determine what is going on with your unit, the manufacturer suggests you run the on-board diagnostics. To do this, put the unit in “boost mode”, let it run for a few minutes and then run the “test pool pilot” to get your volts and amps reading. Once you have that reading, put the unit into “forced reverse”, and run the “test pool pilot” again to get a second set of volt/amp readings. Once you have those readings, contact AutoPilot at (727) 823-5642, and provide one of their service technicians with your readings. This will give them a place to start in figuring out what is going on with your unit. Please let us know if we can be of any further assistance.

  • Cathi

    I have an intellichlor IC-40 and an easy touch panel. 2 days the filter didn’t turn on (easy touch panel has the schedule) and I found that the circuit breaker in my house had tripped. Electrician came and replaced the circuit breaker and all seemed fine. This morning, I noticed that the panel states the salt level of the pool at 0 ppm, but that the status is ok. I went to settings and see that the communication is “enabled”, but there’s a message saying there is no communication and to wait 5 mins. There is clearly an issue. The intellichlor is registering all green-power, flow, cell, and salt levels are all good. I figured the communication cable was damaged ($50 plus labor). I called pentair and they told me to replace the pcb board ($200 plus labor). Help! I don’t want to start replacing things part by part….should I just buy a new panel? Is it really the pcb board? Thanks, Cathi

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Cathi, if you have already explained your IntelliChlor IC40 and EasyTouch Control Panel issues to the manufacturer and they suggested replacing the PCB, chances are, replacing the PCB will be your best bet. However, since your panel is reading “no communication… wait 5 mins” and is giving you a 0 ppm salt reading, first check to be sure the cable from the IntelliChlor to your EasyTouch motherboard is properly connected, per installation instructions in your owner’s manual.

      There’s also a chance that same cable (a 22 gauge wire) could be broken and need replacing, as your electrician advised. If the cable is not broken and is properly connected, aside from purchasing a new EasyTouch system, we would recommend replacing the PCB, as the manufacturer suggested. Please let us know if we can be of any further assistance.

  • Rick S

    currently have an IC-40 and it has started to show a red power light after startup from a filter backwash some of the time… check that, most of the time now. I have acid washed the cell twice in the last month (once needed for scale and once to try to fix the power light issue, which it did… once.) I am in summer 4 with the unit. Is this something that can be serviced, or do I need to jsut replace it? The cell life is shown at 40% when you hold the more button down. Salt is good, PH is good (perpetually fighting high PH for some reason… need acid about once a week in the summer but i keep it in check most of the time) and Chlorine is good (when its working). Crystal clear water. Any guidance??? Thanks, Rick

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Rick, when your Pentair IntelliChlor IC40 power light is red, we recommend calling the manufacturer as the red light indicates that the unit needs service and requires prompt attention. You can contact Pentair at (800) 831-7133.

  • Stella

    How can I tell if I have a 2 port or 3 port cell? Also, how can I determine if I have to replace the control box along with the cell?

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Stella, you can decipher between a 2-port and 3-port salt cell based on the shape of the cell. If the cell has just two inlet/outlet ports (one on either end), it is a 2-port cell. If the cell has an intlet/outlet on both ends as well as on the bottom, it is a 3-port cell. If you have a Jandy AquaPure system and currently have a 2-port cell but need a replacement, you will need to upgrade to a 3-port cell. The 3-port cells are slightly larger than the 2-port cells, so some re-plumbing will be necessary.

      For the replacement cell, you will need either the Jandy AquaLink Cell Kit for Pools up to 40,000 Gallons with 16′ Cable or Jandy AquaPure PureLink 7-Blade Cell Kit up to 12,000 Gallons. These kits come with the cell, unions, sensor and 16′ power plug.

      You should not have to replace your control box when you replace your cell unless you are seeing a service code on your display that indicates the control box is going bad. If you are receiving a service code, please let us know what warning your are getting and we’ll be glad to help troubleshoot. Please let us know if we can be of any further assistance.

  • mark

    i have an aqua comfort unit about 4 years old. at 100% volts at cell is 10.7 dc is this ok

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Mark, before we can determine what is going on with the voltage of your AquaComfort Chlorine Generator, we would need to know the model number and serial number of your unit. If you can provide us with those details, we would be more than happy to help you diagnose your problem. Or you could call the manufacturer directly at (410) 549-6083. Thanks, and have a great day.

  • brenda hood

    i have goldline aqua plus. saying no cell power dose this mean salt cell is bad/

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Brenda, when your Hayward Aqua Plus chlorinator is displaying “no cell power”, it usually means there is an issue with your printed circuit board (PCB). We would recommend checking the fuse to see if it has burned out, and also verifying the wires are properly connected, so as to supply power to the system. If the fuse and wiring are fine, you may need to replace your PCB.

      If yours is an AQL-PLUS system, the proper PCB replacement is GLX-PCB-MAIN. If yours is a PL-PLUS system, the proper replacement PCB is GLX-PCB-PRO. The type of system you have can be found on the door of the main control box, next to the serial number.

      Before replacing your PCB, we would recommend contacting Goldline Controls tech support at (888) 921-7665 for a more definitive diagnosis. Please let us know if we can be of any further assistance.

  • Jeff

    I have a 10 year old Chlromatic system with A chloromatic 3 Cell. Im my cell is failing and I found that my cell is no longer made. Will I need to change my whole system or is there a cell that will syncronize with my control unit

  • Kent Wong

    About a year ago I bought a Blue Essence -20 salt chlorine generator and am installing it for the first time now. It is plumbed in and wired and just as I was about to connect the T-cell cable to the generator panel, I noticed a label on it that said “Select T-cell model in menu before plugging in the cell. Failure to do so could result in improper operation. See Installation Manual.” There is no such reference in the installation manual and there is no menu application, only the diagnostic button on the panel that cycles through temperature-voltage-amperage-salinity-desired output-etc. Any idea how to proceed with this? I don’t want to inadvertently cause any operational problems by prematurely plugging the T-cell in. Please help. Thanks! Kent

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Kent, though the label on your T-cell states to “Select T-cell model in menu…”, according to the manufacturer, Blue Essence salt chlorine generators were not designed with the capability to amend the size of the cell. Thus, despite what the label says about selecting the T-cell model, yours is a plug-and-play product, meaning the T-cell that came with the system is ready to roll, and just needs installation. If you have further questions, please don’t hesitate to ask.

  • j joyce

    I have 2 LM3 Salt Chlorinators & need to clean them I have the cleaning liquid specific for the job but when I was un doing the chlorinator it didn’t want to come completely out is there something else I need to do? I dont want to force it just need some idea as I don’t have manual to explain. Regards Joyce

  • Jonathan

    My pool is about 17-18,000 gallons. I currently have the goldline 15 series salt chlorine generator and need to replace the system due to the mother board burning up, again. I am in SW Florida and was thinking of upgrading to the x-series with the fan. Should I also get the unit for the 25,000 gallon pool?

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Jonathan, thank you for your question regarding salt cells. We would recommend the Hayward Turbo Cell 25,000 Gallons with 15′ Cord – T-CELL-9. As long as you update your board to at least a 1.5 revision or higher, the cell suitable for a 25,000 gallon should work well for your purposes.

  • Evert

    I have an 18,000 galloninground pool with plaster walls. I have heard some opine to stay away from salt chlorinators as i have flagstone coping and flagstone exterior of the spa that the spillover/ waterfall has the water “spills over. Also a waterfall feature over natural rocks.claim salt will leave salt residue on the natural stones. Your thoughts please. I would like to add the pentair intellichlor IC40 to my pool. My auto system is a Hayward Ecommand4 with a goldline AQL2-SS-RF remote. Pump is a Pentair intelliflow svrs, heater & 425sf catrrige filter are hayward

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Evert, thank you for your great question regarding your salt chlorinator. It sounds like you are concerned about calcium buildup that may result over time from having a salt system in your pool. Calcium deposits will occur from regular water as well as salt water systems. One thing that would help the residue from accumulating is Natural Chemistry Pool Perfect + PHOSfree. This product combines the power of the enzymes which will eliminate any organic materials that might be present in your water along with the ability to reduce the amount of phosphates in your pool. If you would like to purchase this great product from us, please contact us and we will be happy to help you place your order.

  • Evert

    Thanks, PoolGuru. Now to figureout whetther to go pentair cell or a hayward turbo cell.

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Evert, the Pentair IntelliChlor IC40 and the Hayward Turbo Cell are both great options. Both salt chlorinators work well and have their own advantages. We really like the Pentair IntellChlor IC40 because it has a control panel on the cell for easy monitoring of salt levels, status, and sanitizer output. This easy to use and easy to install cell is perfect for larger residential and smaller commercial pools up to 40,000 gallons. Its chlorine production is 1.40 pounds every 24 hours and it has an automatic shut-off feature that activates under low water pressure and temperature conditions. The IntelliChlor IC40 has titanium electrode blades coated with Ruthenium oxide for better electrolytic production of chlorine. If you contact us, we’ll be more than happy to help you place your order.

  • Dianna

    We have a Polaris Auto Clear Plus giving us code 94 our pool is 4 yrs old we have replaced the cell once about 2 yrs ago. According to our book the 94 means possible cord cut or broken can not see the cord broken or cut anywhere…. all the lights light up on the unit like it was regulated with salt up until a week ago our salt was at 2900 to 3000 now just reads 1000 do we need to replace whole unit? Its odd that the LED display is fully lit

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Dianna, since your Polaris Auto Clear Plus is giving you a code 94, and your salt reading has dropped from 3000 to 1000 in the course of a week, there’s a good chance the 7 amp SloBlo fuse on the back of the main board needs to be replaced. You should be able to find the necessary replacement fuse at your local hardware store. If replacing the fuse does not remedy the issue, we would recommend contacting the manufacturer for further troubleshooting.

  • Brent

    I just replaced my Polairs Autoclear Plus Salt Cell and still can’t get the system to produce chlorine. The water chemistry is fine. Any suggestions?

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Brent, since your water chemistry is fine, in order to determine why your Polaris AutoClear Plus Salt Cell isn’t producing chlorine, we would first need to determine the service code your cell is displaying. If you could please hit the test buttons on the unit and provide us with the three numbers displayed in the sequence, that should help us figure out the issue with your salt cell.

      We would also recommend having your pool water tested for its actual salt reading. This reading could then help us in determining the issue with your salt cell. If you could please provide us with this additional information, we will be more than happy to help you to continue trouble-shooting your cell.

  • Dan Dill

    I am not sure if my slat generator has failed but the monitor tells me high salt 4200. How do i diagnose? Dan

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Dan, because your salt chlorine generator is displaying your salt level at 4200 ppm, we recommend using AquaChek White Salt Test Strips to determine the actual salt level of your pool water. If your actual salt level matches that which is displayed on your display, 4200, you should drain your pool water some and add fresh water until your actual salt level is at or around its ideal level, 3200.

      You should also make sure your system is calibrated for the proper size salt cell. If you need assistance calibrating your cell, please let us know, and we’d be happy to help. If your water test indicates the salt levels are ideal and your system is calibrated for the proper cell, we would recommend contacting the manufacturer of your salt chlorinator directly for additional troubleshooting.

  • halfNM

    I have a Aqua Tech chlorinator and the read out states “no cell power”, any suggestions on troubleshooting?

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi HalfNM, on most salt chlorine generators, “no cell power” usually indicates there is an issue with your printed circuit board (PCB). We recommend checking the fuse to see if it has burned out, and also suggest verifying that the wires are properly connected, so as to supply power to the system. If the fuse and wiring are fine, you may need to replace your PCB, but before replacing it, we recommend contacting the manufacturer for further diagnosis. Please let us know if we can be of any additional assistance.

  • Jo Ann

    We have a Polaris AutoClear Plus salt cell on our pool. The pool is a little over 4 years old. The salt cell housing cracked and spewed water all over the place. The cell has to be replaced, but is there anyway to bypass the cell and be able to run the pump with chlorine for now?

  • LEE ROBINSON

    I have a aqua logic aql ps-16 salt system.. The error message reads no cell power 2.. I checked the fuse and upon taking it out it reset [light went off when reinstalling it] .Powered it up and as soon as countdown was over same message.. Is the 3 amp fuse the one I should ck,or is there another fuse to ck.. the diagnostic salt voltages come up for a split second and then the message appears.

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Lee, we have called Hayward on your behalf, and they have explained the problem with your Aqua Logic system is due to a bad PCB board, and not just a fuse. A replacement board is highly recommended, and the correct replacement you will need is the Hayward Pool Products Inc. Main PCB, Aqua Logic All Versions. Please let us know if we can be of any further assistance.

  • John R

    My intellichlor IC40 cell light will not illuminate. All other lights are green with the exception of Salt which is now yellow…. but working. I have cleaned the cell twice and it looks brand new. I was reading that water temp may cause it to not light up. Pool temp is 49-53 degrees. My neighbor has the same equip, as well as same PB. His comes on during the day when the sun is shinning. Thoughts?

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi John, what you have read is correct. When pool water temperatures drop below 60 degrees, the IntelliChlor reads the salt conductivity level, which displays as much lower than your pool’s actual salt content and may cause the light to turn yellow. Your neighbor’s light turning green during the day does likely have to do with the direct sunlight. Your situation should not be cause for alarm, though we do recommend monitoring your salt level regularly throughout the winter season. You can use AquaChek White Salt Test Strips to do so. If you have any further questions, please don’t hesitate to ask.

  • Nancy

    Is it possible to buy just the 15′ cable for a Hayward t-cell-15 salt cell.

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Nancy, the 15′ cable for the Hayward Goldline Replacement T-Cell-15 is not available on its own, and if you need to replace it, you will have to replace the entire cell. Please let us know if we can be of any further assistance.

  • Rolf Woods

    I have a 7 year old Goldline chlorine generator. For the last few months the display has read about 2000ppm and the check salt and inspect cell lights are on. Also the generating light goes out after about 2 min. The cell is clean and the actual salt level is 3700 ppm. The local pool supply said the cell was bad. I borrowed my neighbor’s cell and got the same results except that the salt reading is 4000 ppm (closer to the actual). With the borrowed unit it appears to be generating chlorine even though the generating light is off. I turned it to Super Chlorinate and that light does stay on along with the check salt and inspect cell lights. How can I check the Display board and the main board to determine which one is bad? Thanks

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Rolf, based on the information you have provided, your salt cell most likely needs to be replaced. Most salt cells last from three to five years, so if you’ve been operating the same cell for seven years, that is very good longevity. When a salt cell begins to fail, the Inspect Cell and Check Salt lights are likely to come on because the cell will not properly read salt levels, which, in turn will cause it to stop generating chlorine.

      If you have recently replaced your cell, before replacing it again we recommend making sure the proper T-Cell has been selected on your salt chlorinator, as this could also be the cause of the issue. To do this, slide the main switch to “Auto”, and push the diagnostic button repeatedly until “t-xx” appears on the display. To change the cell type, slide the main switch from “Auto” to “Superchlorinate” and back to “Auto” until the appropriate T-Cell is selected, and then press the diagnostic button to exit.

      If the proper cell is already selected, you most likely need to replace the cell. To find the appropriate replacement, please let us know the system you are using, and we’ll be happy to recommend the correct replacement cell. Please feel free to contact us for immediate assistance.

  • Steve

    Hi – I have a mineral springs cholorinator and the green power light and generating sanitizer lights illuminate for about 30 seconds and then go out. The salt level has been reading 3100 for about a month. I just had the water checked and they confirmed that the 3100 reading is correct. It would seem that nothing on the display would work if there was no power. Why would the lights go out? Is there a master reset that I might try? Any other ideas?

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Steve, when the power and generating lights go out on your Mineral Springs chlorinator, it could mean the board or transformer is bad or the system is getting some sort of electrical interference. To determine if there is an electrical issue, you should check the voltage on your board. Check the yellow on the right side of your board to the yellow on the rectifier, and the orange on the board to the orange on the rectifier. The voltage should be between 23 and 26 AC.

      If you are uncertain about checking voltage, we suggest contacting a service technician for assistance. A service technician should also be able to diagnose the issue with your system. If you do need to replace your board or transformer, please let us know the model Mineral Springs chlorinator you have, and we would be happy to recommend the appropriate replacements.

    • Steve Rorrer

      The model number is MS-10. It uses a T-Cell 15. There is a Goldline Controls P/N 066012C-1. It will be helpful to know which boards are acceptable replacements. Thank you.

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi again Steve, thank you for the additional information. The proper replacement board for your Mineral Springs MS-10 system with a T-Cell-15 is the Hayward Goldline Aqua Rite PCB Main Printed Circuit Board for T-Cell 15. Please let us know if we can be of any further assistance.

  • Patrick

    I am looking to replace my Hayward Goldline salt cell. I have seen T-Cell-15 and GLX-Cell-15. Are they different models? I don’t want to purchase the wrong one.

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Patrick, the Hayward T-Cell-15 and GLX-Cell-15-W are functionally interchangeable. The only difference between the two is the length of their warranties; the T-Cell-15 currently has a three year warranty, and the GLX-Cell-15-W currently has a one year warranty. If you have any further questions, please don’t hesitate to ask.

  • don

    I need to replace a jandy 1400 aquapure #116620

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Don, if you are replacing a three-port cell and do not need unions, flow sensor or power cord, the Jandy AquaPure 1400 3-Port Replacement Salt System Cell is the proper replacement cell. If you are replacing a two-port cell or need any of the aforementioned parts, the Jandy AquaLink Cell Kit for Pools up to 40,000 Gallons with 16′ Cable is the appropriate replacement. Please note, two-port cells are no longer manufactured, and if you are replacing a two-port cell, some modifications will need to be made to your plumbing to accommodate the slightly longer three-port cell. Please let us know if we can be of any further assistance.

  • John

    I have a 1.5 year old aquapure 1400 that has no error codes, but does not always produce chlorine. I tested all of the diagnostic test points on the front and back boards and they are all within range except for the following: the DC voltages tested both on the back board and at the cell itself are 14V, but should be 22-28. Any suggestions/comments as to why the voltage would be low? Do I need to replace the back board?

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi John, the low voltage is likely an indication of a bigger issue with either a bad transformer, back board or potentially even the cell. We would highly recommend contacting a service technician for further examination and troubleshooting. The technician should be able to suggest the proper course of action to get your AquaPure 1400 back up and running properly. Please let us know if we can be of any further assistance.

  • Ernst

    I have a aqua rite salt chlorinator using a T-Cell -15 unit (about 6 yrs old)recently not producing Cl. My local pool supply company measures my salt level at 3100. The unit was reading 2000. I took the unit in and it passed the diagnostics in the store. I reinstalled the unit and found directions to recalibrate the system which I did to 3100. It went to all green. Since then the salt reading drifts down without changing pool volumes. I think my cell is going to the light. would it be reasonable to just change my cell or is the board bad? 2300 after reset 2900 76 77 30.9 25.9 0.00 45.7 56P 56P -0 -2200 AL-0 same r1.40 same Your thoughts. Thanks

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Ernst, since you’ve already had your water tested and recalibrated your system, it is most likely time to replace your T-Cell-15. When your cell is failing, it can display a low salt reading even if the actual salinity is at the recommended level. Salt cells tend to last from three to five years. You can help extend a cell’s life by frequently cleaning it and using products like Natural Chemistry Cell Protect. Please let us know if we can be of any further assistance.

    • Ernst Vieux

      Thx will do.

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      We’re happy to help, Ernst. If you have any future questions, please don’t hesitate to ask.

  • jake

    I recently replaced a salt cell and after replacing it the system now reads high salt/ amps can any one help with this problem?

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Jake, when your salt chlorinator displays high salt/amps, it may be because the proper model cell has not been selected at your control box. It could mean the salt level in your pool is actually too high. To find your pool’s actual salinity, we recommend using AquaChek White Salt Test Strips. If your salinity is high, you will need to drain your pool some and add fresh water to stabilize your salt level.

      You may also need to recalibrate your cell. If you have a Hayward Goldline or CompuPool generic T-Cell-15, you can refer to our Aqua Rite Turbo Cell Recalibration blog for a step-by-step guide on recalibrating your cell. If you have a different type of salt cell or the above tips don’t fix the issue, we would suggest contacting the manufacturer for additional troubleshooting. Please let us know if we can be of any further assistance.

  • chezhed

    I need to replace a 2 port Jandy 700 cell. I see I will need to replumb but how much greater is the length of the 3 port? My sensor is currently plumbe upstream and fairly close to an elbow. Will I need to remove the old port and put in new piece with a union? What will I need exactly?

  • darwin hernandez

    Pool cell and power box got hot and none of the lights on the cell turned on

  • Ken Hampshire

    My aquapure system is showing a low salt reading and now the control system says that I have a ground fault. Could the low salt cause this? I

  • janice

    I have a Polaris autoclear plus system. it is 5 yrs old. the code reads 91 and the salt level reads 1000 after adjusting the water temperature/ However when I took the water in to be tested the salt level was normal at 3500 and free chlorine was 0. we cleaned the salt cell at the end of the season last year. I was told by the pool store to put chlorine tabs in pool until we were sure what needed replaced????did so and free chlorine is 3 and normal. Should the polaris be turned off while using chlorine tabs??? I wasn’t told to do this and have been running it for the last 5 days / any harm? Do I need just a replacement cell?? if so what kind? Is it 82-760-P or 82-760?

  • janice

    addendum to previous question…was reading other blogs and a ?fuse was mentioned/ Where? and could this be the problem?? see above question for specifics…thanks

  • Todd

    I have an Aquapure 1400. 6 yrs old. Receiving 120 and 121 codes for past 3 weeks. I have cleaned the generator. I have cleaned the sensors. I have cleaned the connector pins on the generator. I am reading voltages at the generator DC cord to pin connection of 36volts. should be 21- 22 volts. I have not opened the Controls to perfom voltage readings per Jandy’s troubleshooting guide. The DC plug to the Generator has no indications of deterioration and is in working order. The internals of the Generator are free of scale an on the surface appear to in working order. Suggest away. Thanks Todd

  • John

    I was looking at aftermarket T-15 cells since the price is usually $100 cheaper. Are there any problems with them that I should be aware of?

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi John, all of our replacement salt cells are brand new and manufacturer sealed for the best performance possible. If you are referring to generic replacement cells, they are designed to be direct plug-and-play replacements for their intended systems, and as long as they are properly installed, there should not be any problems with their performance. Please let us know if we can be of any further assistance.

  • Peter S

    I have a mineral springs system with a Cell-15. The mineral level is reading 0 and it appears to not be generating chlorine. I have had the minerals tested and they are at around 3000. The unit is 6 years old. I had the board replaced last summer. I suspect the cell is bad but wanted to check that the 0 minieral reading would be an indicator. Do I need a new cell and if so which one do I buy? Thanks.

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Peter, based on the age of your salt cell and the symptoms you are experiencing, chances are you need to replace your cell. If you’re currently using a T-Cell-15, another of the same would be the proper replacement.

      Salt cells generally last from three to five years, so getting six years from your cell is very good. Before replacing the cell, there are a couple things you can check that could be preventing chlorine production. If there’s scale buildup on the cell plates or if your pool’s water temperature is below 50 degrees, the cell will not generate chlorine. If neither of these is an issue, it is time to replace the cell. Please let us know if we can be of any further assistance.

  • CL Harris

    I have a t cell 15 that is just out of warranty. Just my luck. There is a cap? with 2 wires on the top of the cell. i don’t see any where on what this is and how to take it off to replace the cell. The wires go into the control center. Any ideas?

  • CL Harris

    Well I found out it’s the flow switch and it’s mounted on the t cell. Is this common or does it need to be moved?

  • Jeanne

    What can you do to make the salt cell work when the No Flow light is on? I have cleaned my cell and had it tested and it Passed, but the No Flow light is on. Any thoughts?

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Jeanne, what type of salt chlorinator do you have? If you have an Aqua Rite system, when its “No Flow” light is on, it means your salt cell has stopped generating chlorine. Check that your flow switch is plugged into the connector on the bottom of the control unit, and ensure that the wire is not cut or damaged. Next, check that the arrows on the flow switch are pointing in the direction of flow, which is essential to the Aqua Rite’s operation.

      If there doesn’t seem to be an issue with your flow sensor or flow direction, there may be a problem with your pool’s salt level. The ideal salt level is around 3,200 PPM. If your salt level is lower than ideal, your salt system may not function properly and the “No Flow” light will come on. Also, please note, pool water below 50 degrees can cause your salt cell to stop generating chlorine. Finally, it could just be time for a new salt cell. Salt cells generally last from three to five years when properly sized and maintained.

      If after addressing these tips the “No Flow” light remains on, before replacing the cell, we highly recommend contacting the manufacturer of your salt chlorinator for additional troubleshooting. Please let us know if we can be of any further assistance.

  • Amy

    Hi, I have a turbo cell 15 that I bought last year from poolsupplyworld.com my board is reading low salt and check cell. I took it off and cleaned it. I used a salt cell cleaner powder that you mix with water. I soaked it for thirty minutes, rinsed it and put it back on. Turned my system back on and it read the same thing. How could it need to be replaced after one year only? I just bought it last spring.

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Amy, as long as your T-Cell-15 is properly sized — it’s rated for pools up to 40,000 gallons — chances are your salt cell does not need to be replaced. When low salt and check cell display on your Aqua Rite chlorinator, it could mean the salt level in your pool is low, which would, in turn, cause the cell to stop generating chlorine properly. You can use AquaChek White Salt Test Strips to check your salt level. If levels are low, simply add salt as needed.

      If your salt level is fine, you may need to make sure the proper Turbo Cell has been selected on your Aqua Rite power center. To select the proper cell, slide the main switch to “Auto”, and push the diagnostic button repeatedly until “t-xx” appears on the display. To change the cell type, slide the main switch from “Auto” to “Superchlorinate” and back to “Auto” until the appropriate T-Cell is selected, and then press the diagnostic button to exit.

      If you already have the proper cell selected, you may need to recalibrate the system, and you can refer to our Aqua Rite Recalibration article for a step-by-step guide. If these tips don’t fix the issue, we would recommend contacting Hayward at (866) 429-7665 for additional troubleshooting. Please let us know if we can be of any further assistance.

  • bruno ricci

    Have Mineral Spring MS-11 with Cell 15. Water temperature 64 degrees, The salt level measurent on the display is 1600, had it checked at the pool center was 4700. Inspect Cell & Low mineral lights on not clorinating..cleaned cell looks good. A couple of days ago the salt level displayes 2600 it worked ok, however it was the same water (4700 measured at the pool center). Is the cel salt sensor in the cell bad or the temperature too low. Should I wait til gets 70 degrees or the cell needs replacemt

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Bruno, chances are you need to replace your T-Cell-15, but you may simply need to make sure the proper Turbo-Cell has been selected in your Mineral Springs control center. To select the proper cell, slide the main switch to “Auto”, and push the diagnostic button repeatedly until “t-xx” appears on the display. To change the cell type, slide the main switch from “Auto” to “Superchlorinate” and back to “Auto” until the appropriate T-Cell is selected, and then press the diagnostic button to exit.

      If this does not work, you likely need a new cell. Salt cells generally last from three to five years when properly sized and maintained. If you have any further questions, please don’t hesitate to ask.

  • DAVE

    I HAVE A AQUA RITE SALT SYSTEM THAT IS SHOWING A NO FLOW CODE. MY OLD CELL WAS BAD, SO I ORDERED A NEW T CELL15 FROM YOU. AFTER INSTALLING IT, IT STILL SHOWS A NO FLOW. WHAT ESLE COULD BE WRONG?

  • Dave

    I have a Mineral Springs Salt Chlorinator model #MS-11. My pool and system are 9yrs old. I opened my pool for the season and the water was cloudy. I shocked it and the water cleared. At this time I turned my salt system on. The mineral reading was low and the “inspect cell” and “low minerals” indicator LED”s were illuminated a solid steady red light. I cleaned my cell with a mild acid washing and reinstalled it. The cell is only 2 yrs old. A day or two the lights were still illuminated so I took a sample to get it tested just to make sure my chemical levels were right. The minerals were in the correct range- 2800, but the chlorine level was low. It has been suggested that I recalibrate my system. I have searched my manual but do not see instructions on how to recalibrate. Can you give me instructions on how to do that? Any other suggestions?

  • Robert C

    My “No Flow” LED is on steady. My Pool: – 30,000 gal – Goldline Chlorinator with T-Cell-15 My actions thus far: – Balanced chemistry (water clear) – Salt most likely low, but no dramatically, I think. – T-Cell-15 just replaced – Flow Switch just replaced – Inspected circuit boards in generator. No visible signs of component “burning” or other issues. Question: Would an extremely low level of salt cause a steady no flow light? My expectations would have been just a “Check salt” light. Any other thoughts?

  • Robert C

    Followup on my earlier question. I determined that the cable connection from the flow switch to the telephone plug that goes into the controller was bad. Replaced the plug and now it works fine. Sometimes being a past telephone engineer comes in handy! :)

  • Ed hotz

    Does anyone know about replacing the veins in the goldline t-15 electronic cholorine generator. I have been told you can replace the veins only? Anyone know about this?

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Ed, could you please explain what you mean by ‘veins’? Are you perhaps referring to the internal software of the Aqua Rite chlorinator or its turbo cell? If you’re referring to the plate inside the cell, you will need to replace the cell with an entirely new T-Cell-15. Please let us know what you are referring to, and we’ll be happy to assist you further.

  • Jeff

    my pump is on a timer but my goldline salt generator is not will it damge my gen to just leave it on when the pump is off do I have to put the gen on the timer also? thanks

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Jeff, for optimal operation and damage prevention, it is very important that your Aqua Rite system only be powered on when your pool pump is running. Thus, we highly recommend connecting it to the same timer as your pump, or a timer that is synced with the pump. At that point, you should keep the main switch in the “AUTO” position so it will produce chlorine throughout the entire filtering/pumping cycle according to the output percentage you have set. If you have further questions, please don’t hesitate to ask.

  • Jack Ragin

    I am trying to replace a Hayward cell cartridge filterturbo cell GLX-CELL-15W TURBLENT FLOW CHAMBER-T-15 Is this what the picture above is?

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Jack, the salt cell you see pictured above is actually for a CompuPool salt chlorinator system. If you’re looking for a Hayward GLX-CELL-15-W, you can use a T-CELL-15, GLX-CELL-15-W or a CompuPool Generic T-Cell-15. The T-CELL-15 and GLX-CELL-15-W are both original Hayward cells, and the only difference is in their current warranty; the T-CELL-15 currently comes with a three year warranty while the GLX-CELL-15-W comes with a one year warranty. The CompuPool T-Cell-15 is a generic replacement for the original Hayward product. Please let us know if we can be of any further assistance.

  • Ken

    I have an Aqua Plus T 15 cell that is bad. Can I simply replace the 5 year old cell with the proper replacement cell, or will I need new software, or even a new system? Thanks, Ken

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Ken, you should be able to simply replace your current T-CELL-15 with another. You may have to recalibrate your system, and we have a step-by-step guide to doing so with our “How to Recalibrate Your Hayward Turbo Cell” blog. Please let us know if we can be of any further assistance.

  • Pete

    My pool (56,000 gallons) has 2 mineral springs cell 15 chlorinators. The reading on one of the systems continues to read “hot” even tho the water temp is in the upper 70s. It just started this when I opened the pool this year. I’ve cleaned the cell and shut off/reset the system. How can I troubleshoot/resolve this issue?

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Pete, a “Hot” reading on your Mineral Springs salt chlorine generator means that the cell has gone bad and needs to be replaced. The proper replacement for your system is the T-Cell-15. Please let us know if we can be of any further assistance.

  • Jamie

    I have a Polaris Auto Clear salt system, 4 years old. It shows error code 91. I cleaned it with Muratic acid and water and put it back on and it correctly read the salt level as 3000 ( I had chemical levels checked at local pool supply). After an hour, the salt level the system displays gets lower and lower until the code 91 reappears, and it stops producing chlorine. I’ll hit the “restart cycle” button, and the system will correctly read the salt level again. Again, after an hour, the readings lower until code 91 appears. This is a continuous cycle and I am at my wits end. Please help!!

  • Melanie

    I have an Goldline Aqua Rite Salt System. No power lights will come on. Have checked fuse and voltage

  • Melanie

    Sorry could not finish question. Have a Goldline …checked fuse, voltage, and tranformer – no LED power light. do we have to replace the entire board? Any insight appreciated!

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Melanie, if the fuse and voltage are both responding in good condition, a power failure usually indicates that the board must be replaced, and the correct one you will need is the Hayward Goldline Aqua Rite PCB Main Printed Circuit Board for T-Cell 15. However, to be absolutely sure you need a new board, we highly recommend having your Aqua Rite unit inspected by a service technician, and they’ll be able to let you know the exact cause behind your system’s power failure. For more information, you can contact Hayward/Goldline at (866) 429-7665. Please let us know if we can be of any further assistance.

    • jenn

      I have a brand new pool, pump, filter,and salt unit swimpure plus for about a week now all hayward.its a 12×24 oval salt in pool is reading fine for that size pool all other reading are within range but it is reading no chlorine i have no lights on only the power and the generating light that show it is generating chlorine but no reading so i put the switch onto super chlorinate for 24 hours and still no reading. the water has been in the pool for about 9 days now and the water is very clear,so after all that my question is should i have a chlorine reading and if it was not working would’nt my water be green thank

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Jenn, it sounds like you may need to simply recalibrate your salt system, which should align your chlorinator’s salt reading with the actual salt level of your pool. You can check out our “How to Recalibrate Your Hayward Aqua Rite Turbo Cell” blog, which offers a step-by-step process on easily recalibrating your Aqua Rite system. If you have any further questions, please don’t hesitate to ask.

  • Don

    I have an Aquaclear system where can I get a manual or at less the codes for it.

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Don, for an AquaClear salt chlorinator manual, we suggest you contact the manufacturer. They can be reached at 64 (0)9 273 4103. Please let us know if we can be of any further assistance.

  • Adam

    I’m considering converting from a traditional chlorine system to a salt water generator system. My concern comes that I’ve had issues with high copper levels from the previous homeowners alternative chemicals. I’ve used Natural Chemistry Stain Free and Natural Chemistry Metal Free to sequesture the copper and believe I have filtered some out but doubt it’s all out. I continue to use Metal Free on a weekly basis so it’s hard to know how much copper actually is still in the water as it doesn’t show on tests because of the Metal Free. If i convert to salt will the copper harm the salt water system? The second option is to wait until spring to convert and drain the pool and replace with new water. I really want to convert soon but would rather wait as opposed to having to drain and buy a new salt cell after one season.

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Adam, if you’ve gotten most of the copper out of your pool water, converting to a salt system shouldn’t be a problem. But if you believe your pool still has high levels of copper, it’s advised to reduce the levels as much as possible before converting, largely because high copper levels will influence how well a salt cell works. It will also negatively affect the cell’s lifespan. An excess amount of copper can also damage other pool equipment, so you’ll definitely want to drain your pool water if your water chemistry shows high metal ratings.

      However, if your pool is ready to convert to salt, a Jandy AquaPure or Pentair IntelliChlor salt chlorinator are great choices to consider. Both are simple to program, and chlorine production can be easily adjusted to match the chlorine demand of your pool. They both include salt cells that self-clean to reduce the amount of maintenance needed, as well.

      We hope this offered some assistance, and if you have any further questions, please feel free to contact us for immediate assistance.

  • Fenton

    I have an Aqua Rite System with a T15 salt cell. Can a product like CLR be used to clean the cell or is the hydrochloric solution the only recommended?

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Fenton, while CLR could possibly work as a way to rid a salt cell of calcium, it’s recommended to adhere to the manufacturer’s cleaning instructions that suggets using muriatic acid, which has been factory tested to ensure compatibility. You will want to mix a 4:1 solution of water to muriatic acid for the best results. For more information, we recommend giving Hayward a call directly at (866) 429-7665. Please let us know if we can be of any further assistance.

  • kayla

    I am having the same problem as I have read some of the others have had and it appears that my cell is going bad. I get the code 91, salt reading is not the same as the reading the pool place gets, etc. But a lady at a pool place said it was probably either the cell OR the mother board. How would I know if it is the mother board rather than the cell. I would hate to purchase a cell only to find that that was not the problem. When I hit the test button the numbers are 2800, 5.0, 20.7. Thanks,

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Kayla, if you have an AutoClear Plus system, Code 91 could be due to the temperature of the pool water not matching that on the controller, the cell itself needing to be cleaned, the salt level in your pool being off or the pool’s water chemistry being imbalanced.

      To check if it’s a temperature issue, push the Program button on your control panel to see the temperature reading of your AutoClear system. Verify your pool’s actual temperature, and then adjust your AutoClear system’s temperature setting by hitting the up or down arrow button. Check your salt cell for calcium buildup, and clean it if necessary. You can use AquaChek White Salt Test Strips to test your pool’s actual salt level and compare it to the reading on your system, and you can use AquaChek Select Test Strips to check your water chemistry. If either your salt or water chemistry is not ideal, you should address the issue.

      Please note, salt cells generally last from 3-5 years when properly sized and maintained. If after addressing these troubleshooting steps you are still receiving a code 91, it likely means you need to replace your salt cell. It should not be a board issue. If you have any further questions, please don’t hesitate to ask.

  • Dan

    Does anyone accept the old worn out Cells for money?

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Dan, unfortunately, at this time, there are no companies we can recommend who accept old, worn out salt cells for money. Please let us know if we can be of further assistance.

  • Lorraine

    What are codes 120 and 121?

  • BILLY REGISTER

    hi i have installed a pentair ic-40 worked fine for a month, replaced with another worked fone for about 2 months, why is my system only lasting months in place of years. pentair is really hard to deal with. my electrical system is good water is real good ph of 7.2 water flow good system indicates everthing is perfect.

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Billy, we’ll be happy to provide any troubleshooting info that we can, but first, we’ll need to know what exactly went wrong with your IC40. If you can explain some of the symptoms that you’re experiencing, we will try to recommend a few solutions to get your chlorinator up and running properly. When properly size and maintained, a salt cell should last from 3-5 years. How large is your pool? Please feel free to contact us directly for immediate assistance.

  • Anonymous

    iam replaceing my clormatic with an aquapure 1400 do i have to replumb or will it fit?

  • Brice

    HI I have a Hayward Swim Pure plus system and it is not displaying my salt reading. It worked a couple of days ago, but I can no longer see the salt output or the temperature of the pool

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Brice, if the display on your SwimPure Plus system is not working, you may be able to simply recalibrate your system using our step-by-step Recalibration guide, or you may need to replace your Hayward Display PCD Aqua Rite/AquaTrol.

      We first recommend trying to recalibrate, and if that doesn’t work, we would then suggest contacting the manufacturer at (866) 429-7665, as they will be able to walk you through other troubleshooting steps before having to possibly replace the display board. Please let us know if we can be of further assistance.

  • Jerry

    Hi, I have an Aquarite/Goldline series salt chlorinator at r1.4. I just replaced my salt cell with a Compupool unit. The salt level display immediately read 7000 ppm and then stopped generating. The display now just reads “HI”. The actual salt level in the pool is 3500 ppm. It’s been that way for two years and hasn’t changed. I confirmed it with the pool store to be sure. It’s been installed for 4 days & has not changed. Please help.

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Jerry, from the symptoms you describe, and since your actual salinity is fine, you should verify the correct model cell is selected in your Aqua Rite system. To do this, slide the main switch to “Auto”, and push the Diagnostic button until “t-xx” appears on the display. To change the configured cell, slide the main switch from “Auto” to “Super Chlorinate” and then back to “Auto” until you reach “t-15″, which is the only cell the CompuPool Generic Aqua Rite (T-Cell-15) can replace. Finally, push the Diagnostic button to exit.

      If this does not work, you can try recalibrating your cell using our step-by-step Recalibration guide. Should you try both these options and neither works, we would recommend contacting CompuPool directly for additional troubleshooting. Please let us know if we can be of further assistance.

  • Waiakwas

    What happens if my Aqua Rite Flow Switch is installed backwards?

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Waiakwas, if your AquaRite Flow Switch is installed incorrectly, it will give you inaccurate flow readings. The Flow Switch should be installed according to the manufacturer instructions for best results and to avoid voiding the warranty. Please let us know if we can be of further assistance.

  • Bill Mitchell

    If my salt sensor is not working will my cell still work?

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Bill, if your salt sensor is not working, your salt cell will not work properly as high or low salt readings can cause your cell to stop producing chlorine. Which system do you have, what symptoms are you seeing and how old is your salt cell? If you can provide us with more information, we will be happy to help you troubleshoot your salt chlorinator and recommend any replacement parts, if needed. Please feel free to contact us for immediate assistance.

  • kevin

    Just curious, but why should I pay [this price] for your Pentair salt cell when I see it for as low as [this price] from other online suppliers?

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Kevin, our prices are determined for a variety of reasons, but we make them as competitive as possible and also offer free shipping on items over $100 and no tax on orders outside of California. If you have additional price-related questions, please feel free to contact us for immediate assistance.

  • Rick

    I have an aqua pure 1400 and last month replaced both cells. Everything appears to be working, but the cells do not appear to be generating chlorine. Salt level is at 3200 ppm, so I do not believe that is the issue. Along with the new cell kits I also purchased the adapter cable. I have increased the production rate to 95%, still no change. Any thoughts on what I should do next? water temp is in the hi 80′s.

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Rick, if you’re not receiving any error codes on your AquaPure system, it sounds like external forces may be influencing chlorine levels, particularly if your pool is in the high 80s. Heat quickly reduces chlorine levels, and additionally, your pool may have a high level of phosphates, which feed on chlorine. The ideal phosphate rating is between 0-100 ppb. The Natural Chemistry Phosphate Test Kit – 10 Tests will offer you a better idea of what phosphate level your pool is currently at. Similarly, if your pool’s stabilizer (cyanuric acid) level is low, chlorine can be quickly depleted.

      If all your chemistry levels are fine, it may be that your salt cell needs to be recalibrated, and to recalibrate your system you will need to contact the manufacturer directly at (800) 822-7933. We hope this offers some assistance. Please let us know if you have any further questions.

  • Joanne

    I just set up my salt system to an intex pool in my backyard. I added the amount of salt that was recommended from the manual. I turned on the pump and all was fine. I woke up this morning and the pool water was tinted green. I am not sure what happened. as of midnight last night it was clear. Do you have any answers???

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Joanne, the green tint to your pool is likely algae. This could be due your salt chlorinator not properly sanitizing your water, but could also be something that has been building up due to heat, high phosphate levels or improper water chemistry. Check to make sure your salt chlorinator is turned on and its output percentage is properly adjusted, and then test your water chemistry by either taking a sample to a local pool shop or using AquaChek Select Test Strips and the Natural Chemistry Phosphate Test Kit. This will let you know if you water chemistry is balanced and what you need to do to fix it.

      Depending on your salt chlorinator system, you may be able to boost your chlorine level for 24 hours to fight off the problem, or you may need to use a chlorine shock or even an algaecide. If your phosphates are high, algae is likely to follow. Phosphates are the food source for algae, and phosphate levels should be kept below 100 ppb. If your levels are high, you can use Natural Chemistry PHOSfree to help eliminate phosphates. Please let us know if we can be of further assistance.

  • phil

    When the saltwater system ‘beeps’ high salt, does the system stop working or does it continue to produce chlorine even though it is ‘beeping’ until I turn it off?

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Phil, when your system warns you of a high salt content, chlorine is still being produced, but it is highly recommended to drain your pool slightly to reduce the salt level. Too high a salt level can cause corrosion on your pool equipment and stain pool surfaces. Please let us know if we can be of any further assistance.

  • Harry G Tangalakis

    When I scroll through the codes, I don’t know which numbers are for what and I don’t see a code explanation in the Operating manual. Where can I find out what each number represents?

  • Mel Rader

    my swimpure plus panel has quit working. It was not showing the green light for power. checked and the power is there. with the pump on the red flow light will flash and switch to generating. still no power light. after a few seconds the entire system shuts down. a diode on the mother board was burnt so I replaced it. no change. still no power light on panel and shuts down. fuse is good. could the display panel be bad? also should you hear the transformer, if not it may not be working either. generator is clean but could it cause the system to fail?

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Mel, usually if your light is off but the unit is still generating power, it’s possible that there’s a blown fuse. But if your fuse is fine, we recommend contacting Hayward for additional troubleshooting steps to help narrow down the issue. It’s possible it could be the display panel, but calling Hayward will help you confirm whether or not the problem is with the cell or with the control center. Please let us know if we can be of further assistance.

  • Tony

    I currently have a single salt chlorinator. In order to be able to maintain proper chlorine levels I need to run the unit at 100% for 8 hours a day. This is economically unfeasible for me so I have decided to install a second salt cell. My question: Do I also have to install a second control panel?

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Tony, if you choose to install a second salt cell, you will need to install a second control center as well, as the salt cell functions by plugging directly into its own control box. You’ll also be able to monitor and adjust each salt cell based off of its own control panel. Please let us know if we can be of any further assistance.

  • Scott Henning

    My AquaRite salt chlorinator is saying Pcb in the display and has warning lights on that say “no Flow”, high salt, low salt,inspect cell. All four lights and seemingly contradictory. Can you help me ? Waht does the Pcb mean, what do i do?

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Scott, when all four LED indicator lights are illuminating, this is a sign that your PCB (printed circuit board) may be damaged, and we recommend contacting a local service technician to verify this; for more information, Goldline can be reached at (866) 429-7665. If you do need a new circuit board, your proper replacement will be Hayward Goldline Aqua Rite PCB Main Printed Circuit Board for T-Cell 15. Please let us know if we can be of any further assistance.

  • Anonymous

    I recently purchased a t cell 3 for my 14,000 gallon pool, but when my pool tech came to install it he said my system will only accept a t cell 15. I am trying to find out if I can exchange it for a t cell 15 without having to pay a 20 % restocking fee. So far I haven’t gat a response from Pool Supply World to my question.

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Darrel, Looking in our system I see our customer support team contacted you and was able to get this taken care of for you. Please let us know if there is anything else you need. Thanks!

  • Richard B

    I replaced by Aqua Rite T-Cell 15 chlorinator, which lasted 4+ years, with a Hayward Goldline GLX-Cell-15-W. My control panel is not digital and the display light is still showing “No Salt” after running the new cell in system for 4 hours. Pinch-A-Penny has done a water sample and my salt level is great at 3200 and I have within range stabilizer. They told me it takes around 24 hours for the control panel and cell to get synchronized so that it is converting salt to chlorine on a steady basis. Is this correct?

  • gilda snowy

    i just had an aquapure 1400 salt system to my pool……i was messing around with the buttons,,,,,i think i messed them up, can someone please advise me how to set up the numbers, thank you. south florida

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Gilda, To assist with this we will need some more information. Would you please call us at (800) 772-0467? Thanks!

  • Anonymous

    Recently replaced t-15 cell calibrated new cell and still not generating. Everthing appears normal. System is an Aqua Plus/ Aqua Logic. Option valve light is on what is this. In diagnostic menu 25.97 volts and 6.92 amps. What is normal? How do I know if the board is bad. Read many blogs and this system does not have the quarter sized part that often burns out. Any help would be great.

  • paul decurtis

    I have a Hayward swimpure plus generator with T15 cell. Unit is 4 years old, cell 1 yr. Old. Power and generator light will not come on. Salt and temperature readings ok. What could be problem? Could the cell be bad again?!

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Paul, Based on that description I would guess that you probably need to replace the main board in your power center. I would highly recommend contacting Hayward and having them troubleshoot the system to see if they agree prior to ordering any replacement parts. They can be reached at (866) 429-7665. Let me know if there is anything I can do to help! -Christian

  • Kent George

    Greetings, I recently changed out my T-Cell-15 due to black tar leaking out of the power supply. i also noticed green stuff growing in my pool, and extremely low salt reading (1900). After changing the the unit, I added 2 bags of salt to my 15000 gal pool, and got a salt level High reading and no generation. This pool was built in 2006. Can you help?

  • PoolSupplyWorld

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  • Ethel

    I have a aprox.22,000 gallon above the ground/inground pool kit that was installed in-ground. the goldline t-cell salt generator started reading inspect cell. the cell was inspected I was unable to see any build up I cleaned it with a water hose anyway and now it is saying no flow. I have done everything Backwashing. etc the pump is working fine and my water is cyrstal clear but the t-0cell is still saying no flow. what do you think is wrong with it. The system is almost a year old and I ran it all winter.

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Ethel,
      It sounds to me like there is something wrong with your flow switch. If your system is under a year old it should still be covered by Hayward under the manufacturer warranty. If you give them a call at (866) 429-7665 they should be able to confirm what is wrong and get you taken care of. Please let me know if there is anything I can do to help! -Christian

  • ed

    I read in this blog that you recomend checking the cell once a week??? Mine is outdoor and getting it loose from the couplings then lining it back up and tighening it back is an immense pain. Because of that, and the fact that it is now leaking from the lower coupling (and the digital readout has malfuncted-again (repalced the board once already) I want to jettison the sal system altogether. My question is, is it as simple as removing the cell altogether and reconnecting with straight PVC or is there more to it? Im not sure where all the wires are connected.

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Ed,
      You can definitely remove the cell and fill in the gap with straight PVC. The only other thing I would check for is if your system has a flow switch installed in your piping. If it does not you are all set! If it does have a flow switch you can just leave it there as it won’t affect anything. Or if you are concerned about the aesthetics just remove the T where your flow switch is installed and replace that with a straight piece of PVC. Let me know if you have any questions! -Christian

  • Rusty O'Stean

    Just curious if there is any disadvantage or advantage of oversizing a salt cell?…like for instance using a t-15 (40K) on a 20,000 gallon pool. Thanks, Rusty

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Rusty,
      I always recommend over-sizing. When it gets hot your cell will be much less effective at generating chlorine. When the temperature is over 100 it can lose up to 33% of it’s ability to keep up, thus making a 40,000 gallon system good for about 26,400 gallons. Also when you run a larger cell on a lower setting it means less strain on the cell so it will last longer. Let me know if you have any questions! -Christian

  • jeff powers

    how do i know if my cell is bad or its the circuit board that needs to be replaced?

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Jeff,
      What is your system doing that makes you think something is wrong? Can you explain the behavior? -Christian

  • Stacie

    Hi. I replaced the varistor and two smaller red resisters on my AquaRite circuit board to fix the lights out issue as well as a new fuse. There is no humming or noise coming from the transformer but the box is now generating a decent amount of heat that previously was not there. My box is mounted in an open area on exterior wall of my home. Are the boxes normally warm to the touch? I wouldn’t say its burning hot but is noticeably warm. Any suggestions? Thanks, Stacie

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi Stacie,
      I’m not sure what would cause that issue. I would recommend calling Hayward at (866) 429-7665 to see what they recommend. Let me know if you have any questions! -Christian

  • David Snow

    We have had our AquaRite chlorinator for over 8 years with no problems…….until now. Have maintained the pool properly, cleaned cell when needed, cleaned filter, added Purple Magik and Stabilizer as recommended. Now, when the pool turns on, the Aqua Rite does not turn on. I have to manually turn the pool on and off several times before the Aqua Rite turns on. After that, it takes about a minute for the “no flow” light to turn off, then it works as it should, with no problems. I am getting ready to replace the rectifiers, don’t know if I should replace the flow switch as well. I have tested the transformer, and it seems to be in spec, and the current limiter seems to be okay. Don’t know what else it could be. Any suggestions?

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi David,
      If I had to guess I’d say it’s probably the circuit board. However what I would really recommend is calling Hayward at (866) 429-7665 and seeing if they will troubleshoot the system for you and make a recommendation. Let me know if you have any questions! -Christian

  • jose domingos

    i replaced my cell 15 with a new one and also replaced the flow switch. the no flow light is on solid red what could the problem be?

  • David

    We have two Digital Pool Pilots. One for the pool and one for the spa. Just recently we have been having trouble keeping the ORP in line. We have them set at 700 and the shoot past that to 760 and up. They tend to over chlorinate. We have pulled the cells and cleaned them following manufacturers guidlines. pH is 7.4 and 7.5, Total Alkalinty is 100 and 110, and Calcium Hardness is 250 and 300. Any ideas wheter or not my cells are worn out, could it be the Tri Sensors, or possibly the probes? The whole system is only 1 1/2 years old.

    • PoolSupplyWorld

      Hi David,
      That’s not an issue I’m familiar with. I would recommend calling AutoPilot at (727) 823-5642 and seeing if they have any recommendations. Let me know if you have any questions! -Christian

      • http://www.poolsupplyworld.com/ Daniel Henson(PoolSupplyWorld)

        Yes, more than likely this is a sensor issue. I would recommend contacting the manufacturer, if your unit is under warranty. Otherwise, it may be time to purchase a new sensor.

  • David

    Hi, I have a Zodiac tri chlorine generator, and the flow light stays on when the pump is not running and switches off when the pump is on

    • Dylan (PoolSupplyWorld)

      Is this a new install? Or has it been working correctly in the past? I would check to ensure that you are getting proper flow from the pump. Try cleaning the filter, checking any for debris blockages, any closed valves. Next step will be to check that the flow sensor is properly installed. If it’s a new install then perhaps it is wired and installed incorrectly. If it has been in use for a while already then there could be damage to the sensor, or a defect with it.

  • Bobcuse

    I added salt to raise my levels from 2700 to 3200. Without changing my chlorine settings, my chlorine reading jumped from 3.1 to 8.4 within a few days. I had to set the chlorinator to zero for 2 days to get the levels back to 1-3 despite 90 degree Florida days. I then reset the settings for the chlorine and the reading returned to 3.0. Then after some heavy rains over several days, the salt dropped to 2700 again and I added more salt to get the levels up to 3300. Without touching the chlorine settings, the chlorine levels again jumped to the 8-10 range! Is the higher salt levels automatically generating more chlorine regardless of the chlorine setting?

    • http://www.poolsupplyworld.com/ Daniel Henson(PoolSupplyWorld)

      Thank you for taking the time to contact us. Have you checked the salinity or salt levels manually? From what you’ve described I believe your salt levels are fine, but you may have a bad sensor giving you some off results. Also, what system are you using?

    • eifeldude

      one thing i learned…salt never leaves the pool, even with evaporation. (exception would be a leak) If you have to add salt, be very suspicious. I learned the hard way. My cell told me my salt level was very low, so I naturally added salt. I added like 3 or 4 bags before it told me my salt was at the proper level. The next day it read low again. I took the cell to the local pool shop and they tested it. The Cell failed. I had to drain half the pool because my reading was actually 6000ppm. I am paying hell to get the pool back to the correct amount of salt now, and my new cell keeps reading “Hi Salt”

  • Marc Weiss

    I have a Hayward Aqua Rite with a Tcell-5. I’m fairly certain the cell has gone bad because it is reading 0.00 for the salt output. Should I replace with a tcell-5 or can it be a 15 or something else and will it provide longer life?

    • http://www.poolsupplyworld.com/ Daniel Henson(PoolSupplyWorld)

      Marc, a t-cell-15 would definitely mean longer life. During the hottest months of the year your cell is working at it’s higher capacity. At this time it’s under very high stress levels. If you over-size your cell it’s much harder to reach full capacity, thus minimizing the cells workload, and furthermore extending it’s lifespan. I would recommend giving Hayward a call in regards to cells being interchangeable. There are certain firmware versions that are able to upgrade/downgrade and others that are not. You may reach them here: (908) 355-7995 I hope this helps!

  • Paul Tackett

    I have an aqua logic controller and have used my salt system for years without problems. Starting last year I noticed that it seems to be hard to keep the chlorine levels up in the pool and often the levels are at zero. I have always been concerned about whether the salt cell is working since you can’t see anything so a couple years ago, when my cell went bad, I replaced it with an after market cell that has clear plastic so you can actually see the chlorine being generated. So with my current situation, I can see chlorine being generated and visually it appears to be making plenty. However, my chlorine levels are way low. My chemistry is correct, I have stabilizer at the right levels and even when I use the super chlorinate mode, I can’t get the chlorine up. Any thoughts?

    • http://www.poolsupplyworld.com/ Daniel Henson(PoolSupplyWorld)

      Hello, Paul. Where are you seeing these chlorine levels? Are you using a manual test strip or are you reading the digital readout? If you haven’t already, we would recommend testing the water manually. There’s a chance the sensor is bad and it’s simply giving an incorrect reading. In that case you will need to replace the sensor.

  • Roxann Reid-Rojas

    Our chlorinator doesn’t even turn on anymore – we have checked all the fuses, the cells and everything else we can think of. Anyone have any other ideas why it just stopped working?

    • http://www.poolsupplyworld.com/ Daniel Henson(PoolSupplyWorld)

      Hello, Roxann. It sounds like it may be an issue with your power center. Typically it’s the printed circuit board within that fails. If you’re unit is under warranty, I would recommend reaching out to the manufacturer of your salt chlorinator and they should be able to direct you in the right away as far as fixing the power center. If your outside of warranty, it may be time to replace the unit.

  • jaun Brito

    I have a cell brand new my salt was very high and it would shut off. I drained the pool now the light is off and it is working I put it on super Colrinate so I can get some clorine in t he the pool. My pool is 24000 gallons I want to know when should I test my water and see the clorine levels have changed for the better.

    • Dylan (PoolSupplyWorld)

      Once the salt chlorine generator is up and running then you should start to see increased chlorine levels in just a day or two. After two days re-test the water to ensure that everything is operating properly.

  • Anthony Martins

    Can a product like CLR be used to clean the cell. I have the aqua rite system.

    • Dylan (PoolSupplyWorld)

      Without being an expert on CLR, I would not recommend it’s usage for cleaning salt chlorination cells. Per reading the MSDS for the CLR it does state that it is not compatible with metails, which is what the cell plates are made of. I’m sure it would clean off the plates, but I would be hesitant to recommend using the product as I have not heard of any usage of it before. The safest bet will be to follow the acid wash instructions that are recommended and provided in the owner’s manual.

      If you have any further questions that come up then feel free to get in touch!

  • Michael Olkes

    I have a AquaPure Ei and the display is reading “test cell” what do I do?

    • Dylan (PoolSupplyWorld)

      There are a number of issues that could be causing the test cell light to come on. How old is the cell? If it’s too old it may just be time to replace it. Ensure all the connections are hooked up properly and none of the wiring is damaged. I would recommend speaking with the techs at Jandy at 800-822-7933 as they will have further in-depth troubleshooting they can go through to determine the problem.

  • Sharon Matheson Lee

    What should I do to close my salt pool for the winter?

    • Dylan (PoolSupplyWorld)

      Thanks for contacting us! I would suggest reading through this blog post as it is going to outline exactly how to go about closing a pool and all the steps required.

      http://www.poolsupplyworld.com/blog/how-to-close-your-swimming-pool/

      Nothing too special that you need to do with a salt chlorinated pool. One thing you could do, if possible, is remove the cell for the winter to try and save some of the lifespan on it. A few of the manufacturers have ‘Dummy’ replacement cells that can be put in over the winter.

  • Eddie

    I have the swim pure salt system which is about 2 years old.
    The unit has stop generating chlorine.
    The power light and chlorinating light are off.
    The salt level is at 3300.
    I disconnected the the wire to the salt generator and reconnected.

    The power light and generating light came back on for around 5-10sec ten went back off again, then about a minute later it did the same thing.
    Any clues?

    • Dylan (PoolSupplyWorld)

      The fact that the power and generating lights are turning off is an indication that there is something wrong with the main control box. It is tough to pinpoint without being able to examine the electrical components of the system in person. It could possibly be something wrong with the main PCB, loose wiring, a defective transformer, or a number of other things.

      My recommendation will be to have the system looked at by a technician to try and pinpoint the issue. If you contact Hayward at 866-429-7665 they will be able to locate a service center in your area that can assist with the diagnosis.

      If you have any further questions or end up needing replacement parts (such as replacement PCB) then feel free to get in touch. Have a nice day!

  • Hernando

    I changed my cell for a T-Cell-15 (Compupool GRC40GH) because I thought the other was not working and still have 0.000 ppm of salt and 0.0 V plus 0.0 Amps on my control panel showing. This was happening before and chlorine was low. What it could be? It could be because I haven’t re-configure the system? Thanks -.

    • Dylan (PoolSupplyWorld)

      With those readouts there is no chlorine being generated at the moment. Did you have a T-Cell-15 previously? I would inspect all the connections for the cell and for the box. Make sure nothing has become disconnected and that the wiring is all correct. Are there any other blinking or warning lights coming from the control panel? To make sure the system is configured right take the following steps:

      -Slide the main switch to the “Auto” position.
      -Push the diagnostic button until “t-xx” appears on the display.
      -To switch cell type, cycle main switch from Auto>Super Chlorinate>Auto.

      You can also try resetting the average salt level, it is recommended to do so when the cell is replaced.

      -Turn the unit to Off and then back to Auto. Wait for the relay to click (5 to 10 seconds).
      -Press Diagnostics button 5 times to display Instant Salt Level. Wait for the number to settle.
      -Cycle slide main switch from Auto>Super Chlorinate>Auto.

      If you are still unable to determine the source of the problem I would then recommend giving the manufacturer, Hayward, a call directly at 866-429-7665. If I can be of any further help just let me know. Have a good day!

  • Paula J. Dumas

    just had my salt cell replaced a couple months ago. went outside today to it being cracked and water shooting out of it like a sprinkler!

    • Dylan (PoolSupplyWorld)

      Sorry to hear about the difficulty with the cell. If you just purchased it a few years ago then you may be able to contact Hayward for a warranty replacement. I would suggest giving them a call at 866-429-7665. If for whatever reason you aren’t able to get it replaced under warranty then definitely give us a call directly at 800-772-0467 and we will help see what we can do about ordering up a new one. If there are any questions I can help with just let me know.

      • Paula J. Dumas

        Thanks for getting back to me. The salt cell was a Compu Pool Infinity Salt Chlorine Generator i40 Cell. I reported it to my home warranty company and the contractor that was sent out says he cant do anything for me. :( I have so much money invested in this pump and went to the compu pool website and was not even able to see the Salt Cell on the site. I know the turn around will be forever if they cover it. I also read somewhere that they usually wont replace anything unless its normal wear and tear? I think its just a faulty piece of equiptment. I purchased it and had a contractor install it on 9 Sept 2013. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

        • Dylan (PoolSupplyWorld)

          The Infinity name isn’t ringing a bell, perhaps it was re-branded by whomever sold the unit to you. Typically with warranties normal wear and tear is actually NOT covered. Something like a crack in the cell would be more likely to be something that is covered by CompuPool. My first suggestion would be to call CompuPool directly at (888) 989 – 7258 to see what help they can provide. Depending upon what information they request, and whether they have a replacement in stock, this could be a quick process. I think contacting CompuPool is going to be your best bet. Let me know if you run into more problems, thanks!

  • Billie

    Hi There! I have a Hayward Aqua Plus SWG thats only two years old. The first year it worked perfectly, the second summer I have it set at 45% and still not getting higher chlorine levels. Im having to use chlorine liquid to keep it up. How do I know my tcell is still working properly? Also, my freeze protector the last two nights without snow kicked in just fine. Tonight after 5 inches of snow, the freeze protector did not kick in and I had to place the filter on manually. I noticed the red service light was lit up, could that be it? If so, how do I reset that or what could be the problem?

    • Dylan (PoolSupplyWorld)

      Hi Billie,

      To begin with, I would remove the cell and clean it in an acid solution as described in the manual (if you need a manual emailed over let me know). Inspect the plates inside for any buildup of calcium (white substance), if there is a lot of buildup it will inhibit the operation of the cell. Also, if the temperatures drops below about 50 degrees then the salt chlorinator will actually not generate chlorine.

      I would suggest having a sample of your water tested to see if there is something out of balance that could be inhibiting the chlorine. More specifically, see what the cyanuric acid (or conditioner) level is.

      As for your freeze protect, are you referring to your pump’s freeze protection? There might be an issue with it if you are getting a red warning light, that is something I would suggest talking to the manufacturer directly as they have technicians on hand that would be able to troubleshoot the service light.

      Let me know if you have more questions!

  • herb

    have an aqua logic salt generator.t cell 15 and hayward glx-pcb main board.have to reset chlorinator in diagnostic mode twice to get it from 1600 to 3100 ppm.after it runs for a while it will shut chlorinator off saying percentage is met.when i reset it the first time it is negative volts and amps with a reading of around 15 or 1600.then i reset it again and it works fine for a while.had cell tested at leslies pool supply today and said cell was good.dont want to replace wrong part.need advice

    • Dylan (PoolSupplyWorld)

      Hello Herb,

      All of the Hayward salt cells will be reading the amps and voltage from either the positive or the negative polarity, the cell alternates reading from one or the other. Since your negative polarity is currently reading incorrectly, you would need to have the cell run off of the positive polarity in order to operate properly. To set it to the positive polarity; enter the Diagnostic menu, Arrow to the right, set it for + or positive polarity.

      While the cell will work temporarily, every few hours it does flip back and forth so it will eventually go back to the negative polarity and not operate properly again. This is a typical sign of the cell “dying” and needing to be replaced. My recommendation at this point is to replace the cell to ensure proper function and chlorination.

      Let me know if you have any further questions, thanks!

  • herb

    aqua logic salt system diagnostic mode has a negative amps and volts reading with 1500 ppm then after second reset works fine for a while then goes back to 1500 with no error

    • Dylan (PoolSupplyWorld)

      Please see response to your question below.

      Thanks!

  • Gene Smith

    one of the wires broke from the board to the cell on my resilence salt chlorinator A5 they want me to buy a new cell but it is only 3 years old can the wires be replaced?

    • Dylan (PoolSupplyWorld)

      Hi Gene,

      I was looking through the available parts that we had on that unit and unfortunately the cell wiring is something we would not have available to purchase. We can supply the sensors, the cell, and other various parts that are related to the cell. Typically manufacturer’s don’t offer something like wiring as they prefer for the items (cell) to be used with original wiring so as to prevent damage or defects. I do apologize I’m not able to help in this regard, but if you have any further questions please let me know.

  • Jeff

    I have a hayward aquarite chlorine generator. I was told I need to run the pool pump an even number of hours to reduce wear on cell. The way the cell cycles through the different cycles. Was told the cell splits the salt molecule make the chlorine for a cycle then rebonds? the sodium and chlorine making salt for a cycle then rests for a cycle. Any more information would be great

  • PoolSupplyWorld

    Hi Chezhed, the Jandy 3-port cell is a little more than 1-3/4″ longer than the 2-port cell. It is recommended that you use the new 2-1/2″ unions included with the replacement 3-Port Cell Kit when modifying your plumbing. For more detailed installation instructions, we have attached the AquaPure owner’s manual to the cell kit product page for your convenience. Please let us know if we can be of any further assistance.

  • PoolSupplyWorld

    Hi Darwin, there could a number of issues causing the problems with your salt cell and power center. Check your connections to make sure they are secure and undamaged. Also, check your voltage to make sure that your system is installed correctly. If you’ve done the previous and are still having issues, we highly recommend calling the manufacturer of your system for additional troubleshooting steps. Please let us know if we can be of further assistance.

  • PoolSupplyWorld

    Hi Ken, low salt is often the cause of a ground fault, and therefore you will want to verify that the salt display on your AquaPure system reads at least 3,200 PPM, which is the optimal salt level. If it is low, you will need to add more salt to your pool, continuously checking to ensure that your salt level is rising.

    If the additional salt does not remove the “ground fault” message on the control system, there may be an electrical malfunction with your circuit board, and we highly recommend contacting Zodiac for immediate assistance. They can be reached at (800) 822-7933. Please let us know if we can be of any further assistance.

  • PoolSupplyWorld

    Hi Janice, when your AutoClear Plus Cell is triggering a code 91 it could be due to one of several factors: the temperature of the pool water doesn’t match that on the controller, the salt level is off, the pool’s water chemistry is imbalanced or the cell itself needs to be cleaned. It should not have anything to do with the fuse on your control center’s printed circuit board. Since you already cleaned the cell and adjusted water temperature, assuming your pool’s water chemistry is balanced, chances are you need to replace your cell.

    Salt cells generally last from three to five years, when properly sized and maintained. When a cell starts to fail, it can display improper salt level readings and will stop generating chlorine, both of which you have experienced. Because you have an AutoClear Plus system, you should replace your cell with a Polaris AutoClear Plus In-line Replacement Cell (82-760-P), not an AutoClear Replacement Cell (82-760). The AutoClear Plus cell is designed specifically for AutoClear Plus systems, for pools up to 40,000 gallons.

    Until you get your new cell, we recommend turning off your salt chlorinator, as it is not generating any chlorine and running it during this time is not necessary. However, it should not hurt it to keep it operating while using chlorine tablets as long as water flow is normal. If you have any further questions, please feel free to contact us for immediate assistance.

  • PoolSupplyWorld

    Hi CL, the flow switch for a T-Cell-15 should not be connected to the cell itself, and should instead mount to a Pipe Tee that is configured into your pool’s plumbing. You can see a detailed diagram of proper flow switch installation in the Aqua Rite owner’s manual attached to the “Resources” section of the T-Cell-15 product page.

    Replacement T-Cell-15s do not include a flow switch. If you need an entire flow switch/tee combination, you would need the Hayward Pool Products Inc. Flow Switch, 2″ Pipe Tee, 10-12GPM, 15′ Cable. You can also get just the Pipe Tee or just the Flo Switch with Cable, if that’s all you need. If you have any further questions, please don’t hesitate to ask.

  • PoolSupplyWorld

    Hi Dave, the “No Flow” LED indicates that your Aqua Rite isn’t sensing water flow, and the reason for this could be that the flow switch isn’t properly plugged into the connector on the bottom of the control unit or the wire is cut or damaged. If you need a new flow switch, the Hayward Goldline Controls Flow Switch 15′ Cable (No Tee) is the proper product. If this doesn’t seem to be the problem, we recommend contacting Hayward for additional troubleshooting. Please let us know if we can be of any further assistance.

  • PoolSupplyWorld

    Hi Robert, we’re glad to hear you were able to fix the issue with your Aqua Rite system. Usually when you see the symptoms you were seeing, it is something to due with an electrical problem, bad board or transformer. Seems you got the electrical problem sorted out! If you have any further questions, please don’t hesitate to ask. We’re always happy to help.

  • PoolSupplyWorld

    Hi Jaime, error code 91 means there may be a problem with the temperature setting on your AutoClear Plus. Try pushing the PROGRAM button located on the control panel to see what the temperature of your AutoClear system is currently on. You will want to verify that your pool’s actual temperature matches the temperature on your AutoClear unit, which should fix the error you’re receiving. You can also adjust your temperature setting by hitting the UP arrow button.

    If it is not a temperature issue, there could also be an issue with the salt level or chemical balance of your pool. We recommend using AquaChek White Salt Test Strips to test the actual salinity of your pool, and AquaChek Select Test Strips to test the chemical balance. If anything is off, getting your pool to the proper levels could also fix the error code.

    If the temperature, salt level and chemical balance are correct, it likely means you will need to replace your salt cell. Salt cells usually last from 3-5 years when properly sized and maintained. If you have further questions or need help finding a replacement cell, if necessary, please feel free to contact us directly for immediate assistance.

  • PoolSupplyWorld

    Hi Woody, the AquaPure 1400 salt cells are slightly longer than your existing cell, and their new three-port design will require minor plumbing modifications. For more specific information, we advise contacting Zodiac directly at (800) 822-7933. Please let us know if we can be of any further assistance.

  • PoolSupplyWorld

    Hi Richard, It can take some time for the cell and control panel to synchronize. Is it working now?

  • Richard B

    The control panel is indicating Low Salt, with the LED light on continuously, meaning the control panel says the cell is not making chlorine. However, I had my water tested by 2 differnt places and the salt level is 3000-3100 and the chlorine level went from 0 on Saturday when I put in the new cell to in the normal range Tuesday. So it appears the cell is working, but eh control panel is not reading properly. My control pany is not digital, installed in 1999 and the pool places I went to said the new sell is stronger in voltage or amperage and even though it is working the control panel probably isn;t making the right readings. I’m probably going to have it replaced soon, although as long as my pool is clear and chlorine is being made every day, I hate to spend the money.

  • PoolSupplyWorld

    Hi Richard, I would like to discuss some different possibilities with you would you please email me at sales@poolsupplyworld.com ATTN: Christian with your contact information? Thanks!

  • PoolSupplyWorld

    Hi Jamie, I’m sorry but I’m not having any luck finding any information on that specific issue. Your best bet would be to contact Hayward directly at (866) 429-7665 and they can troubleshoot the unit. Let me know what they determine the problem is. Thanks! -Christian

  • PoolSupplyWorld

    Hi Kent Have you tested the salt independent of the salt system with strips or a test kit? What is your salt level when tested? -Christian

  • PoolSupplyWorld

    Hi Jose,
    First thing I would check is to make sure the flow sensor is not installed backwards. Did you have any problems with the no flow light prior to changing the cell and flow switch? -Christian