| 28 responses to "Goldline Aquarite Salt Chlorinator Review"
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| On May 04,09 at 09:34 AM - Dion Blundell said: |
| I loved having a salt chlorination system for the past seven years, but my second Aqua Rite unit has now died (all lights flashing). I am told that this is still the best unit to buy, but I'd like to make the best choice. My pool is under 15,000 gal.
Since I live in Palm Springs, and this unit becomes extremely hot, I suppose the AQR-X296 would be recommended; is the only difference the addition of a cooling fan? Why does it mention higher salt levels?
I would love to have automatic sensing and adjustment of chlorine and pH, as my current unit requires frequent adjustment to maintain chlorine levels as temperatures change. Would this require a AQ-RT-PRO-15 plus an AQL-CHEM plus an AQL-CHEM2? If I used liquid muriatic acid, not CO2 tanks, would this also require a separate pump?
Does the PRO unit also have a fan, or is it more likely to overheat here in the desert?
Thanks for your help!
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| On May 12,09 at 07:21 PM - Tim Aiken said: |
| I purchased your system almost 4 years ago from a very reputable pool builder. The system ran great for 3 years and this week had an algee bloom. The system runs good for 3 years. The general consensus is that the product is great but short lived. Maybe the design needs to be changed to make it more durable. |
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| On May 14,09 at 07:45 AM - Pool Guru said: |
| @Dion
The AQR-X296 would be your best bet for the climate that your pool is in. If you want something that will control your balance i would recommend the Pro or even the Aqua Plus, we just did a video on the Aqua Plus. I don’t belive these units have a fan but they will allow you to use the AQL-CHEM and/or AQL-CHEM. You will need the AQL-CHEM which checks your pH and ORP levels but only can adjust the ORP. The AQL-CHEM2 is optional but would adjust CO2 to balance your pH. They do not mention liquid muriatic acid but i will check into it. |
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| On May 14,09 at 07:47 AM - Pool Guru said: |
| @Tim Aiken
Did the control unit completely go out? Have you check your cell to make sure that its not the cell that went out? The cell typically last 3 - 5 years depending on usage so you might want to try that before replacing the whole unit. |
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| On Jul 06,09 at 02:43 PM - Dave Stony Point said: |
| I have had the Aquarite salt generator for 5 years and it has finally died. It is a great product that has faithfully chlorinated my pool and made my life easier. The problem now is diagnosing what is bad..the control board or the cell. There is no easy or straight forward way to know and the Goldline technical people are nice but not very knowledgeable about their product. I have had 2 factory authorized service people out to my home and we still don't know what the problem is! I am going to have to take the leap and buy a new cell and hope that solves my problem. I wish there was a diagostic test that was definitive for the control board or the cell...any suggestions out there?
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| On Jul 07,09 at 07:47 AM - PoolGuru said: |
| Thanks for the great question Dave, is there anything showing up on the LCD display? If you are still getting a reading then it might be the cell, but if the LCD is not displaying anything it could be the board. Let me know what specifically its doing and I will try and help you get to the bottom of it. If you ever have any other questions or comments we would love to hear them! |
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| On Jul 10,09 at 02:18 PM - Dave said: |
| I am getting a display on the panel but it shows 0 for the salt level. I have tested the salt level and the reading was at 2800 and the water even tastes salty. I have to assume it is the cell. I ordered a cell from you last night. I hope that solves the issue. |
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| On Jul 10,09 at 02:36 PM - PoolGuru said: |
| Then yes most likely it is the cell because it is reading, but not registering anything. Did you order a turbo cell replacement or a compupool replacement? Be sure and let me know if it solves the problem or not! |
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| On Jul 10,09 at 04:47 PM - Dave Stony Point said: |
| I ordered the GLX-CELL-15-W and I just got an e-mail that it has shipped...thank you. I'll let you know how things turn out. |
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| On Jul 23,09 at 11:01 PM - secguy said: |
| these system are horrible as is the support and hayward is taking advatge of cusromers read the following
http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/pools/msg021834138300.html |
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| On Jul 28,09 at 10:47 AM - Shanna Jones said: |
| My Goldline Aquarite has the reading working, but the power light is not on. It is not generating and the super chlorinate light won't go on or any of the lights. Does this mean I need to replace it or ? The cell has been cleaned and I replaced it last year, so it shouldn't be the problem. |
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| On Jul 30,09 at 08:05 AM - PoolGuru said: |
| Shanna - So you're getting a reading on the chlorine level but the power light isn't on and it not producing any chlorine? Is the level of chlorine going down, since the cell isn't producing anything? |
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| On Jul 30,09 at 09:26 AM - Shanna Jones said: |
| Yes, the chlorine level is going down. I added four gallons of liquid chlorine two weeks ago and it is all gone, I got a clear reading Monday and added two more gallons. I'm waiting for the goldline authorized tech to get time to come. None of the lights are on, but the reading is working, so I know it is getting power. I can turn off the breaker and reset it and it goes through the readings really fast for about two minutes and then stops. It says the salt is 2600,but I have added five bags since that reading and nothing ever changes. |
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| On Jul 30,09 at 09:36 AM - PoolGuru said: |
| Unfortunately I think that will be your best bet. It sounds to me like there is a problem with the board because there are no lights on; the salt cell is not producing but your still getting a salt reading. Hopefully it is still covered under warranty; please keep me updated as this would be good information if anyone has a similar problem. |
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| On Aug 06,09 at 11:51 AM - Shanna Jones said: |
| We ended up having to replace the panel in the box on the wall. It looked as if it had received an electrical surge. We did have a lightning storm that hit here last Spring and it knocked down a block wall in my neighbor's yard and knocked out my computer modem, so I guess that could have been the problem. It is working fine now. |
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| On Nov 20,09 at 09:51 AM - Rick said: |
| The salt reading at the store is 3200 the reading at the unit is 3600 how can I adjust the cell to match the store? I already reseted it to the instant reading !!Back that gave me 3400 but today is back at 3600 the unit is clean ( last wee). |
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| On Nov 20,09 at 09:56 AM - Rick said: |
| The salt reading at the store is 3200 the reading at the unit is 3600 how can I adjust the cell to match the store? I already reseted it to the instant reading !!Back that gave me 3400 but today is back at 3600 the unit is clean ( last wee). |
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| On Dec 11,09 at 07:24 AM - PoolGuru said: |
| Excessively high salt levels usually mean that water has evaporated from the pool. You may want to check to make sure that your Cyanuric Acid is within the right range. Also to ensure an accurate reading always use a test kit or test strip. Many times the actual salt reading can differ from the on board salt readings by a couple hundred ppm. Thanks for the great question. |
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| On Jan 23,10 at 08:39 AM - Patrick DeSimone said: |
| I have an 8 year old inground pool and will be changing out my liner this spring. The liner is not leaking but has faded terribly. I would like to install the best hayward salt generation system on the market. What system monitors the most and also dispenses the chemicals automatically. Will the salt generator help prevent to new liner from fading. Thanks so much for your help. |
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| On Jan 25,10 at 09:31 AM - PoolGuru said: |
| Hello Patrick,
For the best Hayward Salt Generation system I would suggest the Goldline Aquarite Pro. Not only does this system come with everything needed to get your pool started with salt chlorination, but this system comes equipped with the ability to add the Total Pool Chemistry Sense and Dispense Kit. With the purchase of the additional Total Pool Chemistry kit you’ll be able to add automatic ORP and pH control to your pool. As for the liner, the salt generator will help prevent it from fading. Fading in the liner usually occurs from fluctuations in the chlorine levels. With a salt chlorinator you will see a steady chlorine level which will be safe for the liner. Thanks for the great questions.
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| On Feb 08,10 at 06:29 AM - Les Martin said: |
| I am looking to get a complete pool system (pump, filter and salt system). I live in Miami FL so I think following would work best. (Pool is about 16k gallons)
Super Pump or Max Flow II
Hayward C1200 Star Clear Plus Cartridge Pool Filter
Goldline Aquarite AQR-X296
Don't know which pump to choose. Any additional help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance |
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| On Feb 08,10 at 01:47 PM - PoolGuru said: |
| Hello Les,
This system sounds terrific. As for the pump selection I would go with the Super pump. I would go for the 3/4hp or the 1hp. At the moment the 1hp pump is on sale, so it is a great option. For the salt system I would go with the T-Cell 9 configuration to make sure it can produce enough chlorine. You may also want to look into the Aqua-Rite-25 system as it is capable of producing chlorine for pools up to 25,000 gallons. It is priced at an economic price and would work great for your pool’s needs. As always you are welcome to contact any of our knowledgeable customer service representatives for more information about pricing. Thanks again and I hope you enjoy your new system.
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| On Feb 11,10 at 04:05 AM - Les Martin said: |
| Thanks PoolGuru. Presently my pool has an inch or 2 of black algae or organic on the deep end. The house was a foreclosure.
My pool guy told me that we can empty the pool, remove the algae and acid wash the pool. Would that be a good enough to clean the pool? Additionally, what are your thoughts on old pool housing with new motors. I know the housing are designed to withstand the outside environment so it sounds logical. Thanks again |
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| On Feb 11,10 at 02:22 PM - PoolGuru said: |
| Hi Les,
You are correct. Draining and acid washing the pool would definitely take care of the algae problem. We had a similar situation when we filmed one of our video series: Algae Filled Green Swimming Pool Rebuild. We had to drain the pool and acid wash the sides. It was a simple process that can be done by any DIYer. As far as putting in a new motor into an old housing, this would be very cost effective. Replacing an old motor can save you a lot of money in comparison to buying a brand new pump. Some of the main things to look for when finding a replacement motor are horsepower, voltage, amperage, hertz, service factor, and phase. These items can be found on the pump label. If you have any questions about finding the perfect replacement pump motor feel free to give one of our sales representatives a call. Thanks again for the great questions.
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| On Feb 11,10 at 07:37 PM - Les Martin said: |
| Thanks...
One last question I presently have 3 jets in the pool (older pool) would a 1.5 hp pool pump be any better than a 1 hp.
You have been great. I will be making the purchases from your company in the next few days. Thanks to you |
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| On Feb 12,10 at 08:26 AM - PoolGuru said: |
| Hello Les,
The 1.5hp pump would be the safer bet for your pool. All the pool piping, filter, and other swimming pool features will cause a loss in flow. With your size pool the 1.5 hp would work great for your pool. Thanks again for the comments. Hope you enjoy your new pool. |
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| On Mar 14,10 at 11:31 AM - evert said: |
| question re salt chlorinator with a gunite pool with mossrock bolder waterfall feature and flagstone coping: have heard stories /warnings from some pool builders to stay away from salt chlorinators as the salt in water could/will eat away the flagstone deck coping,mossrock boulders over time. Am planning on putting in a new pool in dallas tx this spring. your comments? |
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| On Mar 16,10 at 01:20 PM - PoolGuru said: |
| Hello Evert,
I have heard some of the same concerns voiced with using salt water generators with porous stones, like flagstone. The problems lie in the splashing of water onto the porous stones. The water is able to penetrate the stones, and as the water dries, the salt in the water expands a thousand-fold potentially cracking the stone. This varies though between the samples of stone used, as some people with flagstone have noticed this problem, while others with flagstone do not have the same problem. It has led some to believe, with myself included, that some samples of stone are more porous thus creating a greater risk. To remedy the problem, you should consider sealing the flagstone with some sort of sealant. You can also rinse the flagstone and boulders with fresh water after use just to be safe. Hope this helps you out. Thanks for the great question.
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